Interlude: Rosemary

 Note from the Author: New plant…sort of.

 

This Rosemary in the Test Gardens has white flowers.

The woody stems of Rosemary are interesting on their own. Note all the little bumps, those are potential roots waiting to happen.

This years sky-blue flowers. They only seem to emerge in the cold season.

That glorious foliage, is what it's all about.

 

Common Name: Rosemary

 

Other Common Names: None

 

Botanical Family: Lamiaeae (The Mint Family)

 

Botanical Latin Name: Salvia rosmarinus

 

Description & Habitat: Rosemary is native to Africa, Europe, Western Asia and the Mediterranean. In its native region it is found in dry rocky areas however in our area it can be found in most gardens and few gardeners have trouble growing it. You might encounter it in the field in yards where the house is long gone but parts of the old garden persist. Generally speaking Rosemary prefers sunny locations but will tolerate partial shade. It is Salt and Deer resistant and is largely immune to droughts once established. Rosemary prefers a sandy slightly acidic soil but gets benefit from regular irrigation and fertilizer. Rosemary is a reliable perennial in zones 8 through 10 and can with care attain a height of five feet with a spread of four feet. You can identify Rosemary by its square stems which are extra-visible in older woody growth, its needle-like leaves which are in opposite arrangement. Rosemary in Zone 8 is considered an perennial evergreen herb that is primarily used for culinary purposes however the essential oils can help mask your scent from biting insects and it can be used in medicinal preparations and the production or flavoring of liquor. The flowers of Rosemary are typically a bright sky blue, but cultivars with white or pink flowers do exist. In terms of pests this plant is bothered by Mint Moths, Spittlebugs Spider Mites and Whiteflies, but is also one of the few that is not bothered by Snails or Slugs. 

Botanical Latin Note: In 2017, Rosemary’s Botanical Latin name was changed from (Rosmarinus officinalis) to (Salvia Rosmarinus). This change is because genetic testing of Rosemary revealed that it was very closely related to the Sage Genus enough so that it could not be considered its own genus.

 

Special Toxicity Note:  There are no known toxicity issues with this plant.

 

 

When & What to Harvest: Ideally with Rosemary you want to harvest sprigs of Rosemary before it flowers or after the flowering has ended and the plant has resumed growing normally. The needle-like leaves are what you are primarily after for use in a fresh state in your cooking. If the woody stems the needles come from are fairly straight they can be used like a shish kebob skewer. Additionally dried twigs of rosemary with the leaves removed can be burned as somewhat-effective inset-repellant incense.

 

Related Plants: Prostrate Rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus ‘Prostratus’).

 

Recipe: Rosemary Simple Syrup

 

1 Cup of water

1 Cup of Unbleached Sugar

¼ Cup of Rosemary leaves, packed

 

1. Gently wash the Rosemary using cold water and inspect for undesired debris like webbing or bugs.

2. Chop the Rosemary up as much as possible.

3. Combine all ingredients in a sauce pan and bring to a boil.

4. Stir as needed until the sugar dissolves.

5. Simmer for about a minute after and then remove from heat and cover the pan.

6. Allow the mix to steep for about thirty minutes.

7. Strain out the rosemary bits.

8. Pour the mixture into an appropriate sized jar for display, gifting or for your own use.

9. Once the syrup is cool it is ready to use in drinks or to boost recipes.

         

If making this syrup for display, make sure to use a properly sterilized Mason jar with a new lid. Inspect the jar for any signs of unwanted growth before use and throw out if the safety lid on the jar shows signs of bulging or out-gassing.

         

Additional Information: (If applicable)

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/salvia-rosmarinus/

 

Where to get Seed or Bare Root Plants:

https://www.botanicalinterests.com/collections/rosemary-heirloom-seeds

 

 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but my booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog.  In addition to being able to process card payments we now take CashApp payments so your payment options for my product have tripled. With that said; if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic fruit, herbs, flowers and perennials, come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

Spring Produce:

(This is the last week for the produce listed below, expect spring plants next week.)

Garlic, Softneck

Soup Kits, Parsnip

Soup Kits, Turnip

Carrots

Celery

Onions

Parsnips

Red Potatoes

Turnips

 

Plants Coming Soon:

Elephant Garlic

Soft neck Garlic

Yellow Onions

Formosa Lilies

 

 

How to stay in Contact with Us!

All you need to keep up with all our activities is to have a Nextdoor account and to look for the ‘Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville’ group and ask to join! You don’t have to live in Fayetteville to join us! Feel free to ask all your garden questions of our knowledgeable membership and post your cool garden pictures.

 

Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville

 

Also please take a gander at the YouTube version of this blog:

The Videos: Look Here

>Newest videos (2): The Common Onion, Elephant Garlic

 

Meetings are still going on! Our next (unofficial) meeting is February 14^th at the Fayetteville City Market at 325 Franklin Street between 9:00 am and 1:00 pm. If you can’t make it to the City Market come on down to the North South Brewery Market which is at 304 Williams Street (Right off West Russel Street), between 1pm and 5pm every Saturday.

Companion Planting Series: Part 3 - The Onion Family

 

Companion Planting Series: Part 3 - The Onion Family

 

          In today’s post we’re going to talk about the Onion family because they are one of the most important plant genera of garden plants for three major reasons; the genus contains herbs, vegetables and ornamental options. All of the Allium genus is found under the Amaryllidaceae family which means that those big red or pink Amaryllis you have out in your yard are cousins.  The Allium genus itself is composed of monocoltyledonous flowering plants with about a thousand accepted species and this means it’s the largest genus in the Amaryllis family. In short for just about every need there’s an Allium. So what makes and Allium an Allium? Well, they are mainly characterized by the presence of a bulb, and potentially fragrant long-lasting flowers as well as a resistance to grazing animals due to compounds they contain called lachrymatory chemicals. These compounds are a chemical defense that is easily volatilized and become airborne or stick to fur, skin or clothing and over stimulate the tear glands. How that works is that a compound called Allinase breaks down to produce two other organic chemicals called syn-propanethol-s-oxide and Lachrymatory-factor synthase. This is what makes you tear up while cutting onions in the kitchen and if an onion is harvested at the wrong time of year it can have a tear gas like effect despite tear gas using different chemicals.

 

          Beyond this the Bulb of an Allium is worthy of description because it’s not like the Corms of Gladiolus or the tubers you see on Potatoes. The outermost dry skin of an Allium bulb is called the tunic and it is what most of the inner layers will become if the plant lives long enough. The inner layers are called Bulb scales and they are fleshy modified leaves that exist to store carbohydrates and water for the Allium’s survival and growth they also act as a protective layer for what is at the center. At the center of things is a shortened modified stem which produces the growing point from which the green stalk and leaves emerge out of the often pointed tip of the bulb. At the very bottom is a hard layer called the Basal Plate, this area contains specialized cells that are geared towards producing what are called Adventitious Roots because they only emerge when there is contact with moisture or the soil. It is off the Basal Plate that offsets or Bulbels will emerge; these bulbels are a form of asexual reproduction where your Allium is effectively cloning itself. In some cases, Alliums are known to produce small bulbs on their stems as is seen in the case of Egyptian Onions. This is also a form of asexual reproduction and is a clone of the parent; these tiny bulbs are called Bulbils. Oddly Egyptian Onions take it even further, and may produce flowers from stems atop the bulbils just to make sure there is a next generation. This is where quantifying the Allium’s lice cycle gets a little hazy, because Alliums grown for food are grown as annuals but are actually biennial or perhaps perennial. Alliums grown as ornamentals are typically considered to be perennial, though as a part of Allium’s nature that might not be exactly true. A lot of members of the Allium species cluster and produce bulbels and form entire colonies Chives and Garlic Chives are great examples of this. What you can’t see is if the original few bulbs are still there or if they’ve been replaced by successive generations, so they may appear perennial but may be living their best biennial lives and you might never know. Elephant Garlic is a good contrast, because they too in time will form colonies but if those colonies are not split eventually the center-most eldest bulbs eventually rot and the middle hollows out as the ring expands ever onward.

 

This is a Red Onion bought from the store, Red Onions are essentially a type of Common Onion. The red pigment makes for a good dye, and is good for you because of the Anthocyanins.

 

 

So, about that companion planting stuff we were supposed to be discussing. Onions are a very reliable plant for use in companion planting, their main and best attribute in the garden is their sheer space efficiency. You can plant between 4 and 9 garlic cloves per square foot and if you’re not growing the larger species of culinary Onions, then 4-6 per foot of row is perfectly acceptable. If you’re growing the herbal Onions (Chives), then give them at least a square foot and watch them fill it. Above all else onions are great neighbors because they seldom become invasive and they help with the critter resistance of your garden. It is well-known that Onions work great with the Cabbage family but they also are knotted to go great with Beets, Swiss Chard, Strawberries, Tomatoes, Lettuce, Summer Savory, Chamomile but do not mix well with Peas or Beans. Your chief pest problem with Allium will be Onion Maggots which are the larva of the Onion Fly (Delia antiqua). However Onions, or their aroma and allopathic compounds will help mask Cabbage from their Cabbage Moth and Cabbage Butterfly problems.

 

 

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) – Chives are one of the quintessential herbs for the garden, though growing them can be tricky as they are a bit temperamental and in our climate need regular irrigation. Chives pair well with  Carrots and help in Apple orchards by preventing Apple Scab.

 

Chives, Garlic (Allium tuberosum) – Garlic Chives are the easier to grow cousin of Chives and are distinguished by having flat leaves that are not hollow. They pair well with the same things as Chives but spread faster, and some have said they get aggressive under certain conditions.

 

These garlic cloves are from the Garlic I sell at the market. They decided to sprout and once one in a bulb does, others soon follow and so they have to become seed Garlic.

 

 

Garlic (Allium sativum) – Garlic has been a seasoning staple for ages and is easy to grow and does not really get any pests, unless you count envious neighbors who want some. Garlic is said to help in preventing borers when grown around fruit trees, be good with Roses and to, protect Tomatoes from Red Spider Mites.

 

Garlic, Bear (Allium ursinum) – Bear Garlic is a wild species of wild garlic that is native to Europe and Asia, but it was brought to North America via colonization. It is commonly also called Cow’s Leek because cows love to eat it but it can alter the flavor of milk from cows that have eaten it. It is suggested that it be paired with aromatic herbs.

 

These are two of the larger Elephant Garlic cloves from last year's harvest. Elephant Garlic can survive in dry storage for more than a year with no issues.

 

Garlic, Elephant (Allium ampeloprasum variety ampeloprasum) –  Elephant Garlic is the massive cousin of Garlic with a far milder flavor. While technically a type of Leek, it pairs best with vegetables such as Lettuce, Swiss Chard, Beets, Carrots, Arugula or Radishes.

 

Garlic, Society (Tulbaghia violacea) – Society Garlic is a special mention in this listing. It isn’t an Allium, but the bulbs have a very mild garlic flavor and its flowers are great for attracting pollinators.

 

Garlic, Wild (Allium vinale) – Wild Garlic is a bit controversial, it is generally considered a weed and can be found in lawns usually after the smell hits you after you’ve mowed it. Some sources suggest it can rapidly go invasive too so there is that to be considered before cultivating it. It is fully edible but can be very pungent.

Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum) – Leeks have a botanical synonym, (A. porrum) that may appear in some publications. Leeks are a heavy feeder by Allium standards, but they grow well with carrots and fast maturing radishes.

 

This Yellow Onion is of the variety 'Yellow of Parma'. It was one that was in a soup kit and the thing decided to sprout.

 

Onions, Common (Allium cepa) – Whether Yellow, White, Red or Sweet/Vidalia, the conventional onions are a critical kitchen vegetable and seasoning. To add on to the general notes in the article above, did you know you can grind up the dried tunic to make an onion powder seasoning to rival the one you buy at the store?

 

Onion, Egyptian (Allium x proliferum) – Egyptian Onions are also known as Walking Onions, and humorously they are not from Egypt. It is thought they originally came from modern day India or Pakistan. Regardless of that it takes about a growing season to get these to size These are a cheap effectively perennial option for growing near any cabbage family that are being grown as biennials.

 

Onion, Green (Allium fistulosum) – Green Onions, which when fully mature are called Salad Onions follow the same rules as conventional onions in terms of companion planting but reach a harvestable state far faster and can be planted more densely.

 

Onion, Nodding (Allium cernuum) – Nodding Onions are essentially a wild form of Onion native to the Americas and  as such there isn’t much about it being used in companion planting.

 

Onion, Ornamental (Allium species) – Oranmental Onions are considered inedible and are bred for extra-showy flowers and unique foliage. It can be assumed they offer similar virtues as the Common Onion.

 

Onion, Pregnant (Allium cepa variety aggregatum) – Also known as Mother Onions or Multiplier Onions, preganant Onions are very similar to Common Onions with one major difference, they produce offsets far more frequently. They provide the same benefits as Common Onions.

 

Onion, Wild (Allium canadense) – Wild Onions are hard to tell apart from Wild Garlic (A. vinale), look for a fibrous coat on the central bulb, no offset bulbels and leaves that appear near the base of the flowering stem. Presumably the same rules apply here as with Wild garlic.

 

Ramps (Allium tricoccum) – Ramps are that Carolina staple food that is eaten up in the mountains where if you eat too much the aroma gets in your sweat. The companion Planting options are all woodland plants because this too is a woodland plant

 

Shallots (Allium cepa variety aggregatum) – Shallots are often compared to Green Onions because of how they are sometimes used in cooking. Shallots are milder than Green Onions and fit in better with recipes that call for onion but need not be overpowered by onion flavor. They follow the same companion planting rules as Common Onions.

 

We have now covered the members of the Allium family that you are most likely to encounter when considering your planting plans for your garden this year. As I noted before Onions are space efficient, good at attracting pollinators and resistant to critters such as deer. They pair well the cabbage family and a few other vegetables and fruits and of course they aren’t that hard to grow. I know that changes are I missed a few of the alliums in this post and please reply with specific ones that I did not cover and I’ll provide companion planting information as best I can. In the next episode we start on the Asters and after that the mountain of mints.

 

Companion Planting Series: Part 2 – The Cabbage Family

 Today we’re going to move on from the Carrot Family to the Cabbage family which is scientifically known as Brassicaceae but in older publications you will find the family listed as the Cruciferae. The older name Cruciferae has quite a history, it stems from the Latin word ‘Crucifer’ which means cross-bearing. This has to specifically do with an old world species of Mustard which had its four flower petals arranged in a cross like shape. The new name Brassicaceae was proposed in the 1830’s and the slow shift to using the new name tool until the early 20^th century so 1901 to perhaps 1930. Older gardening books from the 1960’s or 1980’s may still refer to the family as the Crucifers or Cruciferae. It is also not uncommon to see members of the family called Cruciferous Vegetables or Cole crops. The term ‘Cole’ derives from the Latin word Caulis, which means ‘stem’ or ‘stalk’, which fits when you’re looking at Marrow stem Kale, or Brussels Sprouts and a few other cultivated varieties. Beyond this, the Cabbage family is very diverse; there are over three-hundred and fifty genera in the family meaning that you could have encountered one and not have known it.  Additionally, the family is so wide-spread that you can find a member of the family on almost every continent. The sole noted exception is of course Antarctica and certain areas of the tropics such as parts of Brazil, the Congo Basin and parts of Pacific Asia. Otherwise if you garden eventually you’re eventually going to grow a member of this very diverse family. It is generally held that most if not all members of the cabbage family are helped by proximity to herbs such as Hyssop, Thyme, Wormwood, Chamomile, Dill, Sage and, Rosemary. Also as noted with the last to postings they benefit from being near Celery, Onions and Potatoes. Most members of the cabbage family are heavy feeders so they will need compost or fertilizer added to the soil every year. Cabbage due to  its nature as a heavy feeder for example can deplete a soil of Nitrogen potassium and phosphorous in as little as 70 to 100 days. The depletion can be devastating if you grow this crop in the same spot year after year but don’t do anything for the soil. Typically this is where compost or large amounts of composted animal manure comes in. Natural mineral based fertilizers can help with this problem also while artificial (ew!) fertilizers that are water soluble can act as stopgaps during an active growing season.

 

Mature Arugula looks a bit different then store bought and tastes way better than store bought.

Arugula (Eruca sativa) – In addition to what is noted above, Arugula is specifically noted to do best in growing in the light shade of another plant. In the south east this means also that it cannot handle summer heat for long before bolting.

Until the flowers emerge Broccoli looks like Collards or any number of other similar Cabbage Family members, thankfully the leaves are tender and need no frost to 'sweeten'.

 

Broccoli (Brassica olceracea. variety italica) – Broccoli is essentially a Cabbage bred to produce a large flower head instead of leaves. Companions for Broccoli are the aromatic Herbs such as Rosemary, Camomile, Thyme, Sage or Dill. Garlic or any other member of the Onion family is a good companion and may help fend of pests. Annual Flowers such as Marigolds or Nasturtiums and short season crops like Lettuce, Carrots, Swiss Chard, Beets, Spinach and Radishes are good too.

 

Brussels Sprouts (B.o. var. gemmifera) – Since Brussels Sprouts are essentially just cabbage that has been selected to focus on large side buds. (See broccoli companions)

 

Cabbage (B.o. var. capitata) – Cabbage comes in a few forms such as the usual round Green, Red, crinkly Savoy, the Asian types and the pointed types such as Apex. Cabbage is a heavy feeder that can deplete the soil if crop rotation is not used and it is quite vulnerable to foliar disease and Cabbage Moth Larva.  (See broccoli companions)

 

Cauliflower (B.o. var. botrytis) – Cauliflower operates the same way as Broccoli, albeit Cauliflower has somehow obtained a college education.

I typically grow collards in lieu of traditional cabbage because they do not deplete the soil a badly.

 

Collards (B.o. var. viridis) – Collards are very interesting; they used to be called Colewort because they were a cabbage crop that did not form a head. In a nutshell a collard is a super-loose leaf cabbage, and you can really see it in the Cabbage-Collard cross. Thankfully Collards don’t rapidly deplete the soil like Cabbage does and it can easily survive defoliation by Cabbage Moth larva. Collards much like Kale are ancient primitive forms of Cabbage. Collards follow the same companion planting rules as with Broccoli, but I’ve found that they don’t mind Chicory being grown under and in between them.

 

Cress, Garden (Lepidium sativum) – Garden Cress is an annual that is fast growing and pairs well with the Onion Family and other leafy greens. It is considered a cool-season annual so plant in spring and fall.

 

Cress, Upland (Barbarea verna) – Upland Cress is also known as ‘Creasy Greens’, it’s typically used as a trap crop at the end of plantings of other Cabbage family plants to act as a trap crop for pests. It is perfectly edible on its own and makes for a respectable microgreen.

 

Cress, Water (Nasturtium officinale) – Water Cress is often confused with the flowering annual also called Nasturtiums but they are not related. This member of the cabbage family as its name suggests loves being near water or being moist. It pairs well with Lettuce, Parsley and Celery but is said to match up with Mint. It is considered invasive in most of the USA except for North Dakota, so keep it in a pot.

 

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) – Horseradish is known to repel Blister beetles and this makes it an excellent match for White Potatoes. There is some disagreement on if it repels Potato Beetles or not but it is clearly noted that it should be planted at the corners of the Potato plot and be dug yearly so the Horseradish does not spread and take over.

This type of Kale has a dozen common names but I prefer Dinosaur Kale, the specific variety is 'Black Magic'.

 

Kale (B.o. var. sabellica) – Kale is a generally a cool season annual crop despite being a biennial. It will survive our winters, maybe. (See broccoli companions)

 

Kohlrabi (B.o. Gongylodes Group) – Kohlrabi is basically a cabbage that makes moderate sized leaves but is valued for its swollen stem that can be as large as a softball. (See broccoli companions)

 

Moringa Tree (Moringa oleifera) – Moringa, is noted to be a top-tier companion plant because it has a deep taproot and has the ability to fix nitrogen in the soil. All parts of this plant are useful for food and medicinal/Herbal purposes so it’s one of the best things you can grow. It is not hardy in the ground in our zone but if it is grown a large pot and brought in for the winter you can have one. It pairs well with herbs, marigolds, smaller leaf greens and sweet potatoes.

The Mustard is in the upper right and on the upper left. (Upper left) Japanese Red Giant Mustard, (Upper right) Purple 'Miz America' Mizuna Mustard.

 

Mustard, Greens (Brassica juncea) – Mustard Greens are typically found at the supermarket in the form of bright green somewhat crinkly leaves. Mustard Greens pair well with carrots, Radishes and the same plants that Broccoli does. They are less susceptible to Cabbage Moths if any other member of the Cabbage family is present.

 

Mustard, Seed (Brassica nigra) – Mustard seed as a companion plant follows the same rules as a lot of the rest of the Cabbage family, but also does well next to the herb Yarrow. It also gains benefit from the shade cast by rows of corn.

 

Radish (Raphanus sativus) – Radish are one of the fastest crop plants possible; some varieties are mature and ready to harvest. Cherry Belle is so fast that it is ready in about 20 growing days from seed.  Radishes benefit from proximity to Mustard Greens and Nasturtiums and also seem to grow well around Red Root Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus) which is edible. Radishes are said to repel Striped Cucumber Beetle so it is a good companion for Cucumbers Squash and melons.

 

Rapeseed/Canola (Brassica napus) – Rapeseed is a strange name; it has nothing to do with ‘S.A.’ however. In this case the name comes from the Latin word Rapa, which means Turnip so Rapeseed is just Turnip Seed. This seed crop plant needs ground covers such as clover, vetch or buckwheat to suppress weeds and feed the soil so it can grow to maturity. Its primary pest is the Pollen Beetle, though Flea beetles, Cabbage Seed Weevils, Brassica Pod Midge and Aphids are problems.  If you are determined to grow this one, you might have to use organic pesticides.

 

Rutabagas (Brassica napus Napobrassica Group) –

Silver Dollar Plant (Lunnaria annua) – Silver Dollar plant is a common sight in seed racks at garden centers this time of year. It is a biennial with edible leaves that produces foliage the first year then pretty purple flowers the second year followed by large silvery seed capsules that are flat and the size of a Silver Dollar. This biennial doesn’t have much in the way of information for companion plants, and most of that are just plants that grow in the same conditions such as Foxglove, Ferns and Lady’s Mantle.

 

Turnips (Brassica rapa subspecies rapa) – As a general rule, you for the most part should not plant cabbage family members near legumes. Turnips are the exception to the rule as they benefit from that and the presence of the aromatic herbs such as Rosemary, Garlic, Thyme and Sage.

 

Wasabi (Eurema japonicum) – Wasabi is one of those plants where the companion matchups aren’t about plants providing mutual aid and are about other plants that share it’s growing preferences. The three most common suggestions are Hostas, Ginger and Ferns.

In regards to the cabbage family it would be a terrible oversight not to talk in more detail about the pests that can wreck your crops. Due to our climate and long growing season, there are at least five species of Butterfly/Moth whose caterpillars can make your crop unsaleable. The first species is just called a Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicae). But also there is the Large White Cabbage Butterfly (Pieris brassicae) which  closely related to the Small White Cabbage Butterfly (Pieris rapae), also The Cabbage Looper (Trichoplusia ni) and last the one I haven’t seen the Cross-Striped Cabbage worm (Evergestis rimosalis). There are three ways to deal with these critters; the first is hand picking once you start seeing the adults fluttering about because the adults home in on the chemical compounds exhaled by your crop when they exchange gasses. Companion planting can help mask this but inevitably as Steve Goldblum’s character said in Jurassic Park ‘Nature..uh, finds a way.’ Adults flying about mean that there are probably eggs and as such, hungry caterpillars will follow soon after. Handpicking the caterpillars is easy when you have a few plants but fifty foot rows of crinkly kale makes that kind of difficult. So that’s where the organic pesticides come in, you could make one out of tobacco or a few other plants or use Neem Oil. The catch is that all of these are contact based and wash off in the rain. So you have to coat every possible surface to ensure that the batch of wrigglers is knocked down and kept in check. Alternately, and I do not prefer this method you can treat your crop with a 30-60 day systemic pesticide, but you need to be careful of which one you use, it’s residual action and be careful that there are no unintended effects. Lastly and this is my least favorite option; conventional Insecticide. Of the insecticides out there, I prefer pyrethrum-based insecticidal soap because it’s effective, has no real residual action and is inexpensive. However there are others that get stronger and have longer action but, those too have problems because they may be restricted to purchase, require personal protective gear and some damage native and honey bee populations (ie Malathion). Either way, I’d rather be with good options than without so plan carefully and see you next time for the Onion Family.