Companion Planting Series: Part 3 - The Onion Family

 

Companion Planting Series: Part 3 - The Onion Family

 

          In today’s post we’re going to talk about the Onion family because they are one of the most important plant genera of garden plants for three major reasons; the genus contains herbs, vegetables and ornamental options. All of the Allium genus is found under the Amaryllidaceae family which means that those big red or pink Amaryllis you have out in your yard are cousins.  The Allium genus itself is composed of monocoltyledonous flowering plants with about a thousand accepted species and this means it’s the largest genus in the Amaryllis family. In short for just about every need there’s an Allium. So what makes and Allium an Allium? Well, they are mainly characterized by the presence of a bulb, and potentially fragrant long-lasting flowers as well as a resistance to grazing animals due to compounds they contain called lachrymatory chemicals. These compounds are a chemical defense that is easily volatilized and become airborne or stick to fur, skin or clothing and over stimulate the tear glands. How that works is that a compound called Allinase breaks down to produce two other organic chemicals called syn-propanethol-s-oxide and Lachrymatory-factor synthase. This is what makes you tear up while cutting onions in the kitchen and if an onion is harvested at the wrong time of year it can have a tear gas like effect despite tear gas using different chemicals.

 

          Beyond this the Bulb of an Allium is worthy of description because it’s not like the Corms of Gladiolus or the tubers you see on Potatoes. The outermost dry skin of an Allium bulb is called the tunic and it is what most of the inner layers will become if the plant lives long enough. The inner layers are called Bulb scales and they are fleshy modified leaves that exist to store carbohydrates and water for the Allium’s survival and growth they also act as a protective layer for what is at the center. At the center of things is a shortened modified stem which produces the growing point from which the green stalk and leaves emerge out of the often pointed tip of the bulb. At the very bottom is a hard layer called the Basal Plate, this area contains specialized cells that are geared towards producing what are called Adventitious Roots because they only emerge when there is contact with moisture or the soil. It is off the Basal Plate that offsets or Bulbels will emerge; these bulbels are a form of asexual reproduction where your Allium is effectively cloning itself. In some cases, Alliums are known to produce small bulbs on their stems as is seen in the case of Egyptian Onions. This is also a form of asexual reproduction and is a clone of the parent; these tiny bulbs are called Bulbils. Oddly Egyptian Onions take it even further, and may produce flowers from stems atop the bulbils just to make sure there is a next generation. This is where quantifying the Allium’s lice cycle gets a little hazy, because Alliums grown for food are grown as annuals but are actually biennial or perhaps perennial. Alliums grown as ornamentals are typically considered to be perennial, though as a part of Allium’s nature that might not be exactly true. A lot of members of the Allium species cluster and produce bulbels and form entire colonies Chives and Garlic Chives are great examples of this. What you can’t see is if the original few bulbs are still there or if they’ve been replaced by successive generations, so they may appear perennial but may be living their best biennial lives and you might never know. Elephant Garlic is a good contrast, because they too in time will form colonies but if those colonies are not split eventually the center-most eldest bulbs eventually rot and the middle hollows out as the ring expands ever onward.

 

This is a Red Onion bought from the store, Red Onions are essentially a type of Common Onion. The red pigment makes for a good dye, and is good for you because of the Anthocyanins.

 

 

So, about that companion planting stuff we were supposed to be discussing. Onions are a very reliable plant for use in companion planting, their main and best attribute in the garden is their sheer space efficiency. You can plant between 4 and 9 garlic cloves per square foot and if you’re not growing the larger species of culinary Onions, then 4-6 per foot of row is perfectly acceptable. If you’re growing the herbal Onions (Chives), then give them at least a square foot and watch them fill it. Above all else onions are great neighbors because they seldom become invasive and they help with the critter resistance of your garden. It is well-known that Onions work great with the Cabbage family but they also are knotted to go great with Beets, Swiss Chard, Strawberries, Tomatoes, Lettuce, Summer Savory, Chamomile but do not mix well with Peas or Beans. Your chief pest problem with Allium will be Onion Maggots which are the larva of the Onion Fly (Delia antiqua). However Onions, or their aroma and allopathic compounds will help mask Cabbage from their Cabbage Moth and Cabbage Butterfly problems.

 

 

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) – Chives are one of the quintessential herbs for the garden, though growing them can be tricky as they are a bit temperamental and in our climate need regular irrigation. Chives pair well with  Carrots and help in Apple orchards by preventing Apple Scab.

 

Chives, Garlic (Allium tuberosum) – Garlic Chives are the easier to grow cousin of Chives and are distinguished by having flat leaves that are not hollow. They pair well with the same things as Chives but spread faster, and some have said they get aggressive under certain conditions.

 

These garlic cloves are from the Garlic I sell at the market. They decided to sprout and once one in a bulb does, others soon follow and so they have to become seed Garlic.

 

 

Garlic (Allium sativum) – Garlic has been a seasoning staple for ages and is easy to grow and does not really get any pests, unless you count envious neighbors who want some. Garlic is said to help in preventing borers when grown around fruit trees, be good with Roses and to, protect Tomatoes from Red Spider Mites.

 

Garlic, Bear (Allium ursinum) – Bear Garlic is a wild species of wild garlic that is native to Europe and Asia, but it was brought to North America via colonization. It is commonly also called Cow’s Leek because cows love to eat it but it can alter the flavor of milk from cows that have eaten it. It is suggested that it be paired with aromatic herbs.

 

These are two of the larger Elephant Garlic cloves from last year's harvest. Elephant Garlic can survive in dry storage for more than a year with no issues.

 

Garlic, Elephant (Allium ampeloprasum variety ampeloprasum) –  Elephant Garlic is the massive cousin of Garlic with a far milder flavor. While technically a type of Leek, it pairs best with vegetables such as Lettuce, Swiss Chard, Beets, Carrots, Arugula or Radishes.

 

Garlic, Society (Tulbaghia violacea) – Society Garlic is a special mention in this listing. It isn’t an Allium, but the bulbs have a very mild garlic flavor and its flowers are great for attracting pollinators.

 

Garlic, Wild (Allium vinale) – Wild Garlic is a bit controversial, it is generally considered a weed and can be found in lawns usually after the smell hits you after you’ve mowed it. Some sources suggest it can rapidly go invasive too so there is that to be considered before cultivating it. It is fully edible but can be very pungent.

Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum) – Leeks have a botanical synonym, (A. porrum) that may appear in some publications. Leeks are a heavy feeder by Allium standards, but they grow well with carrots and fast maturing radishes.

 

This Yellow Onion is of the variety 'Yellow of Parma'. It was one that was in a soup kit and the thing decided to sprout.

 

Onions, Common (Allium cepa) – Whether Yellow, White, Red or Sweet/Vidalia, the conventional onions are a critical kitchen vegetable and seasoning. To add on to the general notes in the article above, did you know you can grind up the dried tunic to make an onion powder seasoning to rival the one you buy at the store?

 

Onion, Egyptian (Allium x proliferum) – Egyptian Onions are also known as Walking Onions, and humorously they are not from Egypt. It is thought they originally came from modern day India or Pakistan. Regardless of that it takes about a growing season to get these to size These are a cheap effectively perennial option for growing near any cabbage family that are being grown as biennials.

 

Onion, Green (Allium fistulosum) – Green Onions, which when fully mature are called Salad Onions follow the same rules as conventional onions in terms of companion planting but reach a harvestable state far faster and can be planted more densely.

 

Onion, Nodding (Allium cernuum) – Nodding Onions are essentially a wild form of Onion native to the Americas and  as such there isn’t much about it being used in companion planting.

 

Onion, Ornamental (Allium species) – Oranmental Onions are considered inedible and are bred for extra-showy flowers and unique foliage. It can be assumed they offer similar virtues as the Common Onion.

 

Onion, Pregnant (Allium cepa variety aggregatum) – Also known as Mother Onions or Multiplier Onions, preganant Onions are very similar to Common Onions with one major difference, they produce offsets far more frequently. They provide the same benefits as Common Onions.

 

Onion, Wild (Allium canadense) – Wild Onions are hard to tell apart from Wild Garlic (A. vinale), look for a fibrous coat on the central bulb, no offset bulbels and leaves that appear near the base of the flowering stem. Presumably the same rules apply here as with Wild garlic.

 

Ramps (Allium tricoccum) – Ramps are that Carolina staple food that is eaten up in the mountains where if you eat too much the aroma gets in your sweat. The companion Planting options are all woodland plants because this too is a woodland plant

 

Shallots (Allium cepa variety aggregatum) – Shallots are often compared to Green Onions because of how they are sometimes used in cooking. Shallots are milder than Green Onions and fit in better with recipes that call for onion but need not be overpowered by onion flavor. They follow the same companion planting rules as Common Onions.

 

We have now covered the members of the Allium family that you are most likely to encounter when considering your planting plans for your garden this year. As I noted before Onions are space efficient, good at attracting pollinators and resistant to critters such as deer. They pair well the cabbage family and a few other vegetables and fruits and of course they aren’t that hard to grow. I know that changes are I missed a few of the alliums in this post and please reply with specific ones that I did not cover and I’ll provide companion planting information as best I can. In the next episode we start on the Asters and after that the mountain of mints.

 

Companion Planting Series: Part 2 – The Cabbage Family

 Today we’re going to move on from the Carrot Family to the Cabbage family which is scientifically known as Brassicaceae but in older publications you will find the family listed as the Cruciferae. The older name Cruciferae has quite a history, it stems from the Latin word ‘Crucifer’ which means cross-bearing. This has to specifically do with an old world species of Mustard which had its four flower petals arranged in a cross like shape. The new name Brassicaceae was proposed in the 1830’s and the slow shift to using the new name tool until the early 20^th century so 1901 to perhaps 1930. Older gardening books from the 1960’s or 1980’s may still refer to the family as the Crucifers or Cruciferae. It is also not uncommon to see members of the family called Cruciferous Vegetables or Cole crops. The term ‘Cole’ derives from the Latin word Caulis, which means ‘stem’ or ‘stalk’, which fits when you’re looking at Marrow stem Kale, or Brussels Sprouts and a few other cultivated varieties. Beyond this, the Cabbage family is very diverse; there are over three-hundred and fifty genera in the family meaning that you could have encountered one and not have known it.  Additionally, the family is so wide-spread that you can find a member of the family on almost every continent. The sole noted exception is of course Antarctica and certain areas of the tropics such as parts of Brazil, the Congo Basin and parts of Pacific Asia. Otherwise if you garden eventually you’re eventually going to grow a member of this very diverse family. It is generally held that most if not all members of the cabbage family are helped by proximity to herbs such as Hyssop, Thyme, Wormwood, Chamomile, Dill, Sage and, Rosemary. Also as noted with the last to postings they benefit from being near Celery, Onions and Potatoes. Most members of the cabbage family are heavy feeders so they will need compost or fertilizer added to the soil every year. Cabbage due to  its nature as a heavy feeder for example can deplete a soil of Nitrogen potassium and phosphorous in as little as 70 to 100 days. The depletion can be devastating if you grow this crop in the same spot year after year but don’t do anything for the soil. Typically this is where compost or large amounts of composted animal manure comes in. Natural mineral based fertilizers can help with this problem also while artificial (ew!) fertilizers that are water soluble can act as stopgaps during an active growing season.

 

Mature Arugula looks a bit different then store bought and tastes way better than store bought.

Arugula (Eruca sativa) – In addition to what is noted above, Arugula is specifically noted to do best in growing in the light shade of another plant. In the south east this means also that it cannot handle summer heat for long before bolting.

Until the flowers emerge Broccoli looks like Collards or any number of other similar Cabbage Family members, thankfully the leaves are tender and need no frost to 'sweeten'.

 

Broccoli (Brassica olceracea. variety italica) – Broccoli is essentially a Cabbage bred to produce a large flower head instead of leaves. Companions for Broccoli are the aromatic Herbs such as Rosemary, Camomile, Thyme, Sage or Dill. Garlic or any other member of the Onion family is a good companion and may help fend of pests. Annual Flowers such as Marigolds or Nasturtiums and short season crops like Lettuce, Carrots, Swiss Chard, Beets, Spinach and Radishes are good too.

 

Brussels Sprouts (B.o. var. gemmifera) – Since Brussels Sprouts are essentially just cabbage that has been selected to focus on large side buds. (See broccoli companions)

 

Cabbage (B.o. var. capitata) – Cabbage comes in a few forms such as the usual round Green, Red, crinkly Savoy, the Asian types and the pointed types such as Apex. Cabbage is a heavy feeder that can deplete the soil if crop rotation is not used and it is quite vulnerable to foliar disease and Cabbage Moth Larva.  (See broccoli companions)

 

Cauliflower (B.o. var. botrytis) – Cauliflower operates the same way as Broccoli, albeit Cauliflower has somehow obtained a college education.

I typically grow collards in lieu of traditional cabbage because they do not deplete the soil a badly.

 

Collards (B.o. var. viridis) – Collards are very interesting; they used to be called Colewort because they were a cabbage crop that did not form a head. In a nutshell a collard is a super-loose leaf cabbage, and you can really see it in the Cabbage-Collard cross. Thankfully Collards don’t rapidly deplete the soil like Cabbage does and it can easily survive defoliation by Cabbage Moth larva. Collards much like Kale are ancient primitive forms of Cabbage. Collards follow the same companion planting rules as with Broccoli, but I’ve found that they don’t mind Chicory being grown under and in between them.

 

Cress, Garden (Lepidium sativum) – Garden Cress is an annual that is fast growing and pairs well with the Onion Family and other leafy greens. It is considered a cool-season annual so plant in spring and fall.

 

Cress, Upland (Barbarea verna) – Upland Cress is also known as ‘Creasy Greens’, it’s typically used as a trap crop at the end of plantings of other Cabbage family plants to act as a trap crop for pests. It is perfectly edible on its own and makes for a respectable microgreen.

 

Cress, Water (Nasturtium officinale) – Water Cress is often confused with the flowering annual also called Nasturtiums but they are not related. This member of the cabbage family as its name suggests loves being near water or being moist. It pairs well with Lettuce, Parsley and Celery but is said to match up with Mint. It is considered invasive in most of the USA except for North Dakota, so keep it in a pot.

 

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) – Horseradish is known to repel Blister beetles and this makes it an excellent match for White Potatoes. There is some disagreement on if it repels Potato Beetles or not but it is clearly noted that it should be planted at the corners of the Potato plot and be dug yearly so the Horseradish does not spread and take over.

This type of Kale has a dozen common names but I prefer Dinosaur Kale, the specific variety is 'Black Magic'.

 

Kale (B.o. var. sabellica) – Kale is a generally a cool season annual crop despite being a biennial. It will survive our winters, maybe. (See broccoli companions)

 

Kohlrabi (B.o. Gongylodes Group) – Kohlrabi is basically a cabbage that makes moderate sized leaves but is valued for its swollen stem that can be as large as a softball. (See broccoli companions)

 

Moringa Tree (Moringa oleifera) – Moringa, is noted to be a top-tier companion plant because it has a deep taproot and has the ability to fix nitrogen in the soil. All parts of this plant are useful for food and medicinal/Herbal purposes so it’s one of the best things you can grow. It is not hardy in the ground in our zone but if it is grown a large pot and brought in for the winter you can have one. It pairs well with herbs, marigolds, smaller leaf greens and sweet potatoes.

The Mustard is in the upper right and on the upper left. (Upper left) Japanese Red Giant Mustard, (Upper right) Purple 'Miz America' Mizuna Mustard.

 

Mustard, Greens (Brassica juncea) – Mustard Greens are typically found at the supermarket in the form of bright green somewhat crinkly leaves. Mustard Greens pair well with carrots, Radishes and the same plants that Broccoli does. They are less susceptible to Cabbage Moths if any other member of the Cabbage family is present.

 

Mustard, Seed (Brassica nigra) – Mustard seed as a companion plant follows the same rules as a lot of the rest of the Cabbage family, but also does well next to the herb Yarrow. It also gains benefit from the shade cast by rows of corn.

 

Radish (Raphanus sativus) – Radish are one of the fastest crop plants possible; some varieties are mature and ready to harvest. Cherry Belle is so fast that it is ready in about 20 growing days from seed.  Radishes benefit from proximity to Mustard Greens and Nasturtiums and also seem to grow well around Red Root Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus) which is edible. Radishes are said to repel Striped Cucumber Beetle so it is a good companion for Cucumbers Squash and melons.

 

Rapeseed/Canola (Brassica napus) – Rapeseed is a strange name; it has nothing to do with ‘S.A.’ however. In this case the name comes from the Latin word Rapa, which means Turnip so Rapeseed is just Turnip Seed. This seed crop plant needs ground covers such as clover, vetch or buckwheat to suppress weeds and feed the soil so it can grow to maturity. Its primary pest is the Pollen Beetle, though Flea beetles, Cabbage Seed Weevils, Brassica Pod Midge and Aphids are problems.  If you are determined to grow this one, you might have to use organic pesticides.

 

Rutabagas (Brassica napus Napobrassica Group) –

Silver Dollar Plant (Lunnaria annua) – Silver Dollar plant is a common sight in seed racks at garden centers this time of year. It is a biennial with edible leaves that produces foliage the first year then pretty purple flowers the second year followed by large silvery seed capsules that are flat and the size of a Silver Dollar. This biennial doesn’t have much in the way of information for companion plants, and most of that are just plants that grow in the same conditions such as Foxglove, Ferns and Lady’s Mantle.

 

Turnips (Brassica rapa subspecies rapa) – As a general rule, you for the most part should not plant cabbage family members near legumes. Turnips are the exception to the rule as they benefit from that and the presence of the aromatic herbs such as Rosemary, Garlic, Thyme and Sage.

 

Wasabi (Eurema japonicum) – Wasabi is one of those plants where the companion matchups aren’t about plants providing mutual aid and are about other plants that share it’s growing preferences. The three most common suggestions are Hostas, Ginger and Ferns.

In regards to the cabbage family it would be a terrible oversight not to talk in more detail about the pests that can wreck your crops. Due to our climate and long growing season, there are at least five species of Butterfly/Moth whose caterpillars can make your crop unsaleable. The first species is just called a Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicae). But also there is the Large White Cabbage Butterfly (Pieris brassicae) which  closely related to the Small White Cabbage Butterfly (Pieris rapae), also The Cabbage Looper (Trichoplusia ni) and last the one I haven’t seen the Cross-Striped Cabbage worm (Evergestis rimosalis). There are three ways to deal with these critters; the first is hand picking once you start seeing the adults fluttering about because the adults home in on the chemical compounds exhaled by your crop when they exchange gasses. Companion planting can help mask this but inevitably as Steve Goldblum’s character said in Jurassic Park ‘Nature..uh, finds a way.’ Adults flying about mean that there are probably eggs and as such, hungry caterpillars will follow soon after. Handpicking the caterpillars is easy when you have a few plants but fifty foot rows of crinkly kale makes that kind of difficult. So that’s where the organic pesticides come in, you could make one out of tobacco or a few other plants or use Neem Oil. The catch is that all of these are contact based and wash off in the rain. So you have to coat every possible surface to ensure that the batch of wrigglers is knocked down and kept in check. Alternately, and I do not prefer this method you can treat your crop with a 30-60 day systemic pesticide, but you need to be careful of which one you use, it’s residual action and be careful that there are no unintended effects. Lastly and this is my least favorite option; conventional Insecticide. Of the insecticides out there, I prefer pyrethrum-based insecticidal soap because it’s effective, has no real residual action and is inexpensive. However there are others that get stronger and have longer action but, those too have problems because they may be restricted to purchase, require personal protective gear and some damage native and honey bee populations (ie Malathion). Either way, I’d rather be with good options than without so plan carefully and see you next time for the Onion Family.

Companion Planting Series: Part 1 - The Carrot Family

As part of a series of special posts up here I will be posting information about Companion planting and grouping plants of interest by the family they belong to. I've you've read The Wild Harvest Digest posts on Nextdoor already imagine these posts as a expanded version since I do not have to deal with pesky character limits here. The source material for some of this information is Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte, Rodale's Companion Planting and, Roses Love Garlic by Louise Riotte as well as the North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Tool Box, The Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center and a few other credible online sources. Today's post will cover the Carrot Family which is known today collectively as the Apiaceae family, but in older publications is known as the Umbelliferae. The older name is a direct reference to the shape of the flower heads of plants in this family which is called an Umbel. The new name Apiaceae was first used by John Lindley in 1836, it derives from the name Apium which is the ancient Greek name of Celery. the original family name didn't officially switch over until about 1996, which ironically is why a bunch of my horticulture books still use the old name. You will see this a lot when it comes to major plant families in common cultivation because they get more scientific study.

 

Anise (Pimpinella anisum) – Anise is an annual herb in the Carrot family. It is said to have antiseptic oils and its chief use is that it helps Coriander seed germinate when they are sown outside near each other.

 

Caraway (Carum carvi) – Caraway is a biennial that is difficult to sprout, though some sources indicate that sowing it around freshly sown garden peas helps the germination rate indicating they would be a good pairing. It does not however grow well near its cousin Fennel.

 

 

 

Carrots (Daucus carota subspecies sativus) – Carrots get protective effects from being grown close to Onions, Rosemary, Black Salsify, Wormwood and Sage. Carrots grow best when paired with tomatoes because they impede weeds and their low arching foliage helps keep the soil cooler. Carrots also are a good pairing with peas but according to a few sources will not do as well near their cousin Dill. Queen Anne’s Lace is a carrot that has escaped cultivation or a wild carrot that has reverted to a natural form, we have patches of these in Fayetteville.

 

Celeriac (Apium graveolens variety rapaceum) – This alternative form of Celery does its best if grown after a sowing of winter vetch has been turned under in the same spot. Celeriac because it is a biennial root vegetable needs higher than normal levels of Nitrogen and Potassium and pairs in the garden with leeks and also Field/cow peas.

 

Celery (Apium graveolens) – Celery much like Celeriac is a biennial and grows well with onions, but also with Tomatoes and Cabbages. Both Celery and Celeriac have a chemical compound (apigenin) in them that have a blood sugar lowering and insulin resistance effect.

 

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) – Commonly called French Parsley, in our climate this herb is best grown with morning sun and afternoon shade.  Radishes are annuals and short–lived annuals and so is Chervil they benefit from being close to each other.

 

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) – Coriander is also known as Cilantro; Coriander is the seeds of the plant, and Cilantro is the foliage. Coriander is a cold weather biennial herb that is best sown in late August through mid-September and be expected to survive the winter in the southeast. Coriander is said to repel aphids, to help Anise but be a problem for Fennel.

 

Dill (Anethum graveolens) – Dill is an annual that readily self-sows giving it the appearance of a biennial or perennial. Dill is said to be a good match for Cabbage.

 

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) – Fennel comes in one of two varieties, the green type or the bronze type; both of them are safely edible. Fennel according to some sources inhibits members of the Nightshade family while pairing with Cabbages, Onions and Mint family members. In come older publications another plant (Nigella sativa) is also commonly called Fennel.

 

 

 

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) – Parsley is a biennial that comes in two forms, the curled or flat leaf types. The former is often used as a garnish and the latter as a seasoning but both can be used in culinary dishes. Parsley seed sown with Carrot seed can help fight off Carrot flies. Parsley planted under Tomatoes can help the vigor of the Tomatoes while also acting as a ground cover to suppress weeds. Eating a sprig of parsley and washing it down despite the taste with ice-cold water can help obliterate bad breath.

 

Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) – Parsnips are a biennial and are known for their difficult germination and their seeds having a very poor shelf life. They’re one of the few root vegetables that don’t really get any pests but if you can get them to germinate they can grow under Tomatoes just like carrots.

 

Lovage (Levisticum officinale) – Lovage is essentially perennial miniature Celery with a flavor that is described as a mix of Celery and Parsley with more kick. The Leaves, roots and seeds are all used in culinary and herbal/medicinal recipes and this plant is said to help pretty much everything else do better.

 

For the purposes of companion planting someone is inevitably going to ask about the two problem children of the Carrot Family; Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum) and, Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum). 

 

The first one was used historically to kill Socrates after he was convicted of corrupting the youth of Athens. Poison Hemlock is a biennial and looks a lot like a Wild Carrot but, Hemlock can get well over eight feet tall, has hollow stems and when it’s foliage is crushed or bruised it emits a unpleasant odor. Also purple spotting is likely to be present on the stems of Poison Hemlock. 

 

Giant Hogweed which is considered a noxious invasive plant has phototoxic sap that can really mess up your skin. Giant Hogweed can get up to 18 feet tall and has leaves that almost resemble those on an unrelated Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus). Giant Hogweed also has hollow purple spotted stems that are often 2-6” in diameter with coarse bristles and leaves may be as wide as 8 feet. In short everything on this plant is massive. It thus far has only been found in Watauga County near blowing rock in NC. For the next bit about companion planting, I’m going to take a look at the Onion family and then after that the Cabbage family.