First day of fall 2021

 Welcome back to another episode of Lost In the Farmers Market, where finally Autumn has arrived and the season begins with cooler temperatures and discussions of a winter garden. Despite what some might tell you here in Zone 8a gardening is a year-round affair. The warm season crops go in in April around Easter, and the Cool –season stuff goes in roughly around September. Some stuff like Collards takes a little longer and thus, we start them in early-mid August if from seed but at the start of September if using plants. Every crop has its nuances that you need to keep an eye on. For instance, if you started seed indoors you need to start sowing things as early as mid-July to August to get the best results for the slower growing cool season crops.

 

Fortunately we have a great opportunity to get things rolling while the humidity is low and night time temperatures are cool. It is less physically exerting to garden when the weather is cooperative and also the bugs are less aggravating. You should not wait to get those crops in the ground though because the longer you wait the less likely they will have established and the higher chance a frost might wreck everything. Additionally, procrastinating will delay your effective harvest, and that could mess up your culinary plans for Thanksgiving, Christmas or the New Year. A lot of people ask in general if it’s too late or too soon and the simple answer is that it is somewhat complicated.  Gardening thankfully is not an exact science with a catch-all answer to all problems or quandaries. Generally speaking, you put warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers in after Easter in spring, and start planting out the fall crops in late August or September. I personally can say that I have planted out things as late as the end of October and gotten good but delayed results. As long as you don’t wait too long you can still have that cool season low-maintenance veggie garden you have had a craving for.

 

With all that said, there are a few things you should consider starting from seed versus buying as plants. I typically start Cilantro/Coriander, Radishes, Carrots, and Snow Peas from seed in the garden because it’s so much cheaper and effective to do so. These plants do not benefit from being transplanted and their roots tend to grow quite fast and you really don’t want to disturb that. Generally you don’t want to disturb any plant’s roots if you can help it but with some they seem to experience no real loss in productivity if you do. As a general rule you never want to disturb the roots of anything producing tubers (radishes) or that has a taproot (carrots, fennel). Peas are in this group because they produce a lot of  roots fast and can rapidly out grow their containers if the container they were sprouted in is not big enough so it’s better to give them root space right off and let them do their thing. What you start by seed hinges on your spare time that you can apply to maintenance and your gardening skill level. For those of you out there who are wondering; the easiest things to start right now are Snow peas, Carrots, Cilantro and, Radishes. The latter three can have their seed tossed on any patch of dirt that’s been slightly scuffed and is moist. The former needs to be covered in about ¼” of dirt but that’s pretty easy and the seed is large and easy to handle.

Peas are a great way to get young kids involved since they are very noticeable when they germinate and emerge. More difficult and or finicky seeds like Swiss Chard, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Broccoli, Cauliflower and so on should be started indoors over a heat mat to maintain soil temperatures. Some of these seeds like the celery need to be soaked overnight just to germinate properly.

The key to getting your sown seed to come up uniformly is to gently moisten the soil where you sowed them on a daily basis (assuming no rain) for about two weeks and then as needed once the seedlings are visible. The easiest way to do this is to use something like a rain shower wand attached to a hose or a watering can so the water doesn’t wash out the seed or beat up the seedlings. You should avoid using any sort of fertilizer for about two weeks after the seedlings emerge to avoid burning but, initially use a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength weekly for three more weeks to really get things going. After that assuming there are no freezing temperatures or rainy weather you can switch to a two-week rotation on fertilizer at normal strength. I would also advise using mulch, but not that wood mulch you can buy at the bLowes or Home Despot, what you want is quality Pine Straw because it does not float, it barely changes color and it discourages digging animals. Also it does not acidify the soil as much as some think and there’s the bonus value of it not attracting termites. Now, with all that said here are some garden photographs.

The first step to preparing the warm-season garden for cool season growing is to harvest what you can, which in this case is the carrots, basil, perilla and whatever peppers and cotton are ready.

After the bed is weeded and the soil gently moved around a bit with the hard steel rake, the collards are planted with about a foot of distance between them. I add a bit of granulated tobacco fertilizer at this point just to give them a constant boost as they grow.

The final step is to apply a decent layer of pine straw to keep the weeds down and the critters from messing with the seedlings. I watered it all with the rain wand attachment on my garden hose right after and maintained a once-a-day watering schedule for two weeks with adjustments for rain.

Bigelowia nutallii - Nutall’s Rayless Goldenrod

Nutall's Rayless Goldenrod is called that because it's flowers dont have petals or 'rays' as they tend to be called on members of the Aster family. Make no mistake this goldenrod is a member of the aster family, it's just a bit anti-social.

 

 

Acanthus ‘Summer Beauty’ – Bears Breeches

The best part of this Acanthus is that no one knows where the heck the name Bear's Breeches came from. Maybe it's tied into that old joke about a bear crapping in the woods or maybe some ancestor of this plant was used by bears as toilet paper...

 

 

 

Ruscus aculeatus ‘Wheeler’s Variety’ – Butcher’s Broom

This is a plant I've long sought, and managed to buy a few years back and boy it was not cheap. However Butcher's Brooms prefer shady areas and are like Sky Pencil Hollies minus being a holly or having any of the problems.

 

Abelmoschus manihot ‘Chief Kubo’s Prize’ – South Sea Salad Tree

 

 Ok, folks I have just found out the best information ever on this tropical cousin of Okra. Yes the leaves and stems and immature seed pods are edible and so are the flowers, but  it is apparently perennial in zone 8A. Sopme sources say 8B, but the USDA states 8A and really who are you going to believe, some random website or these folks!

https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Abelmoschus+manihot

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/abelmoschus-manihot/

 

Hibiscus coccineus ‘Texas Star’ -  Scarlet Rose Mallow

 Yup, this is the plant that had a neighbor calling the police on me because she was absolutely certain it was marijuana, and the leaves do look that way, until it flowers.

 

Ricinus communis ‘Zanzibar’ – Castor Bean

 It keeps getting bigger, it's literally just a little bit shorter than the dogwood behind it and all this growth in a single growing year. Let's hope it can survive the winter.

 

 

Rosa ‘oregold’ – Oregold Rose

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I am not a fan of roses in general, and only three specimens are allowed int he test gardens because of their exceptional health and vigor. The golden yellow of this one is remarkable.

 

Hosta sp. - Hosta

This is one of the more colorful hostas that was recovered from the crescent bed earlier in the year, it has tripled in size and for the first time it's going to bloom. Not long after taking this picture it was repotted to a much larger 15 gallon pot. Oh and don't mind the feisty kitten photobomb.

 

 

So, while the temperatures and humidity have been low I decided to dig out all the Daylilies that aren’t really doing good. I replaced them with the Texas Star Hibiscus, Mekong Giant Banana, Bear’s Breeches and the South Sea Salad Tree. The lilies have been moved to the large strawberry pot after the strawberries were removed. Like the lilies the Strawberries have been progressively under performing for a while.

 

 

Would you look at that, the hot sauce made from my Fayetteville Inferno Peppers is right there on the Board at Fowler's BBQ!

 

 

Here are the latest YouTube videos for your garden entertainment:

 

Salad Tree? Not in here buddy! (100^th LITFM!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP1r_yoXN2c

 

I’d make a meat pun here but it’d get butchered.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyYjbtziznM

 

Go for the Gold-enrod!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rus8Tz5sRlg

 

So many breeches I can’t bear it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61ubssXhFms

 

Spring will be here in a lily bit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eS_h8sMMYb4

 

 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog. Also, as of the start of 2019, my booth can now process credit or debit cards thanks to the acquisition of s a Square reader so your payment options have doubled. With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic fruit, herbs, flowers and perennials, come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

 

Fresh Produce:

Fresh Garlic: $1.00 (Available now!)

Soup Kits: $6.00 (Available in October)

 

Vegetables: ($3.00 each)

Arugula, Astro

Broccoli, Green Magic

Cauliflower, Snow Crown

Collards, Green Glaze

Endive, Benefine

Kale, Dinosaur

Kale, Red Russian

Kale, Redbor

Kale, Dwarf Blue Curled

Spinach, Green Beret

 

Herbs: ($3.00 each)

Cat Mint

Parsley

Oregano

 

Fruiting Plants:

Muscadine Grapes, Green ($4.00)

 

Ornamental Stuff: ($3.00 each)

Coneflower, Artisan Soft Orange ($3.00)

 

Coming Soon:

TBA

 

How to stay in Contact with Us!

 

Our group’s online presence has migrated to Nextdoor.com. All you need to keep up with all our activities is to have a Nextdoor account and to look for the ‘Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville’ group and ask to join! You don’t have to live in Fayetteville to join us! Feel free to ask all your garden questions of our knowledgeable membership and post your cool garden pictures.

 

https://nextdoor.com/g/ybvdm226x/?is=nav_bar

 

 

Meetings are back on track folks! We now meet at LeClairs General Store on the First and third Thursday of every month. Our next meeting is on October 7^th  between 5:30pm and 7:00pm. We are in the back room so come on in and join us for a fun garden chat.

 

 

If the two above methods do not work you can always contact me through this blog, PM me through Nextdoor.com and or visit the Fayetteville City Market. This brings to a close the eighteenth LITFM post of 2021; stay tuned the next episode which should be posted at some point in October. There will be more garden updates and other cool stuff.

The Cool Nights Mean Only One Thing

Welcome back to another episode of Lost In the Farmers Market, and although this post is just a few days late there’s a bit to cover. Firstly did you know this blog has been in operation since May 11^th 2011? I literally didn’t realize it had been that long but lo and behold I’ve been at it for a while. Keeping a blog alive like this one is an at times difficult endeavor because producing content can be difficult if you are trying not to repeat information. Inevitably you cross your own path even if you do not realize it given time and the nature of the topic of gardening. The test gardens have been the source of material for this blog for all that time as well as interesting events in agriculture in general. Some of you have been with me since the beginning and I am hoping that I will pick up more folks as we move into the next decade. Speaking of the botanical test gardens, the Autumn Botanical Test Garden tour is coming up. I am shooting for the 18^th of October between the hours of 2pm and 5pm. It is hoped that by then we will have seen another reduction in the Covid-19 restrictions and the weather will cooperate. If not, expect to bring masks, and the Rain Date for the event will be the 25^th of October, just before Halloween. By then I can assure you there will be plenty of fall delights for your gardening fancy and you get to see what’s going on in the test gardens. I can tell you this, 2020 despite politics and other crazy things that happened has been an amazing harvest year, so you can expect some impressive information and some ideas that flip the script when it comes to gardening. But let’s move on from the shameless promotions to talk about something big.

 

Now there is another milestone to talk about, this blog has a YouTube channel called LITFM Garden Shorts. I’ve posted some videos on this blog so the two content sites link up but the amazing thing is that as of just a few days ago the Youtube site finally reached its 50^th video. Now I admit videos were produced at a breakneck pace so that a reasonable amount of content could be had before I worked a bit more on quality improvement. Some of you will recall how the early videos were shot using the camera on my smartphone, and the ‘wobble vision’ that resulted. After that I started using a digital camera and a grip to shoot videos and quality improved but there was still an issue with image stability. Soon a tripod was being used and I started shooting the ‘Lab videos’ for smaller plant subjects and quality got better. All of this was to bring you a better garden video where the plants were the focus and you got a fact-based source of garden information that has virtually no comparison. Well, this is just the beginning, for the rest of 2020 the format will not be changed much, but I have some plans for 2021.Starting in 2021, there will be one video per week for a total of fifty-two videos per year. The scripting will be more detailed, and they will be longer videos but you will get more out of them so the reduced production speed will pay off for you. I may have to revisit certain subjects such as perennials that are better established or in a few rare cases where I feel the original video wasn’t as good as it could have been. These plant update videos will be bonuses under the title ‘LITFM Garden Redux –‘. The redone videos won’t count towards the 52 videos but should help you all out there with making decisions on what plants to use in your gardens. It is my hope that I can figure out how to better edit videos and maybe ad an actual intro to my videos but this whole series is as much a learning process for me as it is for you. I hope you all out there will keep reading this blog and watching the videos.

 

Videos and blogs hitting milestones is good and all but, ‘where’s the gardens’ you ask. Well about that, the weather has gotten kind of nice, it’s cool at night and daytime temperatures are bearable in the 70’s. This is like a perfect second spring and it is time to get those cold weather veggies in the ground while you have the chance. You can direct sow the classics like carrots, lettuce, radish, collards and so on or get plants and get them in the ground. It is also a good time to apply a mild fall fertilizer like dried bat guano or chicken manure. My preferred favorite is mushroom compost or composted cow manure depending on how heavy my cool season crops need to feed.  Typically the rule of thumb I operate under is that low to moderate feeders like Mustard, Carrots, Radish, Celery, Arugula, Spinach, Lettuce and Swiss Chard get the mushroom compost. Heavier feeders like Collards, Cabbage, Pak Choi, Kale, Kohlrabi, Cauliflower, Broccoli and Turnips get a trop-dressing of composted cow manure.  I apply regular doses of liquid fertilizer (Alaska fish fertilizer) just to supplement that and ensure soil moisture and the rest is all a matter of sitting back, relaxing and waiting for the harvest to come in. This isn’t rocket surgery, but it does have a certain agri-science to it that follows a set pattern of actions and reactions to produce a desired outcome. I should note as a matter of timing for cold season crops it is normal to start your slowest maturing seeds indoors using bottom heat as early as the second week of August. Normally you progress from your slowest maturing to your fastest as you get into September and then into Early October. The last batch of indoor-germinated seedlings should be out for hardening off or planting by the 15^th of October. Fortunately you can sow certain seeds like Lettuce, Carrots, Radish, Swiss Chard and Arugula directly so if your indoor crop fails you can have a somewhat slower backup plan. This is also the time when you apply mulches to things that need protection against the coming cold weather and a good time to shoe-in those last few desired perennials. Pruning of things is in order as most shrubs are set to go dormant and of course your last mow and trim should be around the second or third week of October as our grasses in NC are all warm-season and won’t grow anymore until next year.

 

One of the other magical things about this time of year is the planting of scores of Pansies and Violas for color that lasts through fall into early summer of next year. Another good candidate are the Snapdragons which are a flower that only bumblebees like and yet they provide nectar and pollen in general for any pollinator that can get into the flowers. Many gardeners in the Southeast forget that snapdragons can take the winter cold of zone 6b, so our 8a cold is not a bother as long as the snapdragons are planted once the night time temperatures remain cool and they  are maintained. Cold season floral color means nectar and pollen for whatever pollinators can fly or move so this is a lifeline to pollinators during the winter that will pay off later. Hanging baskets full of annuals such as Pansies can attract Carolina Wrens (Thryothorus ludovicianus) to nest. These small birds which are kind of bland in plumage have impressive songs and a voracious appetite for insect pests. They are your cool-season allies in reducing pests such as cabbage moths and cabbage moth larvae. It may help to maintain a Suet feeder for the wrens and other wild birds during the cold months to make sure your garden is well patrolled for insect pests and you keep some form of rotating bird population. There will be more on this in the next post due to be posted right before the Fall tour but let’s move on to the lovely garden photos for this post.

 

First off is this incredibly lovely picture of what Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans) flowers look like. I think had I planted this earlier the Hummingbirds would have went crazy for it but the best of plans can be mislaid.

Here we have a type of solitary bee, specifically a Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa virginica) on the blooms of a Blue African Basil (Ocimum kilimandscharicum × basilicum 'Dark Opal') plant. Carpenter bees can be a problem to exposed woodwork because they burrow in and build tunnels for nesting. Fortunately these bees while decent pollinators are not very bright and simple wooden bottle traps can eliminate them by the bushel.

 

Here we have the burly looking stems of a Pumpkin Crush American Marigold (Tagetes erecta). When I was turning under annuals and summer crops in pots I started in on the potted marigolds as the first frost would certainly turn them all into soup. I did not expect that marigolds would produce adventitious roots that far up the stem or big chunky stems like that.

 

This picture was taken while out and about town at the day job. These are wild morning glories (Ipomoea purpurea) and the red cup flowers with the bright yellow centers were very striking. I plan to hit that site up to see if I can harvest any seed.

 

Now here's something worth talking about! I thought the Pineapple Sage was only frequented by daytime pollinators but I was wrong. As it turns out one night I happened to shine my flashlight at it and found the entire plant was wiggling. At first I thought I was seeing things then I realized, no there were a crap load of moths going to town for nectar! I don’t know what species these little gray moths are but their little eyes lit up in the unnaturally white light of my LED flashlight.

 

Here for your appreciation is a picture of an Okra blossom. If you had any doubts Okra (Abelmoschus esculentum) is in the Hibiscus/Mallow family consider that laid to rest. Ly last three Okra plants have a temporary reprieve from being turned under with all the other warm season crops because they can reliably produce up until frost.

 

This plant is commonly called Mistflower but I know it as Perennial Ageratum (Conoclinium coelestinum) because of its resemblance to the annual bedding plant with a nearly identical flower.  This plant can be invasive as it spreads moderately fast through rhizomes but is vulnerable to herbicides and manual methods of control. I keep a few colonies of this plant to add color to the property in late summer to early/mid-fall. The sky blue flowers and purple stems are striking and its bigger cousin Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed) adds to the palatte with pinks, purples and, reds. For note the Annual cousin is called Bedding Ageratum (A. houstonianum) and has a bunch of common names revolving around similar terms to the perennial pictured.

 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog.

 With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic vegetables, herbs and fruiting shrubs come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

Food Plants: (3” Peat Pots)
Arugula: $3.00
Cabbage, Ruby Perfection: $3.00
Celery, Tango: $3.00
Collards, Carolina: $3.00
Kale, Lace: $3.00
Kale, Red Russian: $3.00
Kale, Scotch Blue Curled: $3.00
Kohlrabi, Cossak: $3.00
Lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson: $3.00
Lettuce, Cherokee Fire: $3.00
Lettuce, Parris Island: $3.00
Swiss Chard, Red: $3.00
Swiss Chard, Green: $3.00
Spinach, Avon: $3.00

Herbs: (3” Peat Pots)
Black Fennel: $3.00

Coming Soon:
Collards, Alabama Blue
Kale, Marrow Stem
Kale, Rainbow Lacinato
Kale, Lacinato (More available in Two Weeks)
Mustard, Japanese Red Giant (More Available in Two Weeks)

Due to the current Covid-19 situation and the state’s requirement that all citizens are not to gather in groups of more than ten, the weekly Sustainable neighbors meeting is online. Please check the sustainable neighbors Meetup.com page for more info about how to attend our online meeting.

https://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/

Since our meetings have an open-door policy you don’t need to sign up for anything or join anything, you can come on in and join the meetings. If not, you can always send me questions through this blog or visit the farmer’s market. This brings to a close the nineteenth LITFM post of 2020; stay tuned the next episode which should be posted on the 16^th of October. There will be more garden updates and other cool stuff.