Companion Planting Series: Part 1 - The Carrot Family

As part of a series of special posts up here I will be posting information about Companion planting and grouping plants of interest by the family they belong to. I've you've read The Wild Harvest Digest posts on Nextdoor already imagine these posts as a expanded version since I do not have to deal with pesky character limits here. The source material for some of this information is Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte, Rodale's Companion Planting and, Roses Love Garlic by Louise Riotte as well as the North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Tool Box, The Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center and a few other credible online sources. Today's post will cover the Carrot Family which is known today collectively as the Apiaceae family, but in older publications is known as the Umbelliferae. The older name is a direct reference to the shape of the flower heads of plants in this family which is called an Umbel. The new name Apiaceae was first used by John Lindley in 1836, it derives from the name Apium which is the ancient Greek name of Celery. the original family name didn't officially switch over until about 1996, which ironically is why a bunch of my horticulture books still use the old name. You will see this a lot when it comes to major plant families in common cultivation because they get more scientific study.

 

Anise (Pimpinella anisum) – Anise is an annual herb in the Carrot family. It is said to have antiseptic oils and its chief use is that it helps Coriander seed germinate when they are sown outside near each other.

 

Caraway (Carum carvi) – Caraway is a biennial that is difficult to sprout, though some sources indicate that sowing it around freshly sown garden peas helps the germination rate indicating they would be a good pairing. It does not however grow well near its cousin Fennel.

 

 

 

Carrots (Daucus carota subspecies sativus) – Carrots get protective effects from being grown close to Onions, Rosemary, Black Salsify, Wormwood and Sage. Carrots grow best when paired with tomatoes because they impede weeds and their low arching foliage helps keep the soil cooler. Carrots also are a good pairing with peas but according to a few sources will not do as well near their cousin Dill. Queen Anne’s Lace is a carrot that has escaped cultivation or a wild carrot that has reverted to a natural form, we have patches of these in Fayetteville.

 

Celeriac (Apium graveolens variety rapaceum) – This alternative form of Celery does its best if grown after a sowing of winter vetch has been turned under in the same spot. Celeriac because it is a biennial root vegetable needs higher than normal levels of Nitrogen and Potassium and pairs in the garden with leeks and also Field/cow peas.

 

Celery (Apium graveolens) – Celery much like Celeriac is a biennial and grows well with onions, but also with Tomatoes and Cabbages. Both Celery and Celeriac have a chemical compound (apigenin) in them that have a blood sugar lowering and insulin resistance effect.

 

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) – Commonly called French Parsley, in our climate this herb is best grown with morning sun and afternoon shade.  Radishes are annuals and short–lived annuals and so is Chervil they benefit from being close to each other.

 

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) – Coriander is also known as Cilantro; Coriander is the seeds of the plant, and Cilantro is the foliage. Coriander is a cold weather biennial herb that is best sown in late August through mid-September and be expected to survive the winter in the southeast. Coriander is said to repel aphids, to help Anise but be a problem for Fennel.

 

Dill (Anethum graveolens) – Dill is an annual that readily self-sows giving it the appearance of a biennial or perennial. Dill is said to be a good match for Cabbage.

 

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) – Fennel comes in one of two varieties, the green type or the bronze type; both of them are safely edible. Fennel according to some sources inhibits members of the Nightshade family while pairing with Cabbages, Onions and Mint family members. In come older publications another plant (Nigella sativa) is also commonly called Fennel.

 

 

 

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) – Parsley is a biennial that comes in two forms, the curled or flat leaf types. The former is often used as a garnish and the latter as a seasoning but both can be used in culinary dishes. Parsley seed sown with Carrot seed can help fight off Carrot flies. Parsley planted under Tomatoes can help the vigor of the Tomatoes while also acting as a ground cover to suppress weeds. Eating a sprig of parsley and washing it down despite the taste with ice-cold water can help obliterate bad breath.

 

Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) – Parsnips are a biennial and are known for their difficult germination and their seeds having a very poor shelf life. They’re one of the few root vegetables that don’t really get any pests but if you can get them to germinate they can grow under Tomatoes just like carrots.

 

Lovage (Levisticum officinale) – Lovage is essentially perennial miniature Celery with a flavor that is described as a mix of Celery and Parsley with more kick. The Leaves, roots and seeds are all used in culinary and herbal/medicinal recipes and this plant is said to help pretty much everything else do better.

 

For the purposes of companion planting someone is inevitably going to ask about the two problem children of the Carrot Family; Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum) and, Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum). 

 

The first one was used historically to kill Socrates after he was convicted of corrupting the youth of Athens. Poison Hemlock is a biennial and looks a lot like a Wild Carrot but, Hemlock can get well over eight feet tall, has hollow stems and when it’s foliage is crushed or bruised it emits a unpleasant odor. Also purple spotting is likely to be present on the stems of Poison Hemlock. 

 

Giant Hogweed which is considered a noxious invasive plant has phototoxic sap that can really mess up your skin. Giant Hogweed can get up to 18 feet tall and has leaves that almost resemble those on an unrelated Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus). Giant Hogweed also has hollow purple spotted stems that are often 2-6” in diameter with coarse bristles and leaves may be as wide as 8 feet. In short everything on this plant is massive. It thus far has only been found in Watauga County near blowing rock in NC. For the next bit about companion planting, I’m going to take a look at the Onion family and then after that the Cabbage family.

The Cool Nights Mean Only One Thing

Welcome back to another episode of Lost In the Farmers Market, and although this post is just a few days late there’s a bit to cover. Firstly did you know this blog has been in operation since May 11^th 2011? I literally didn’t realize it had been that long but lo and behold I’ve been at it for a while. Keeping a blog alive like this one is an at times difficult endeavor because producing content can be difficult if you are trying not to repeat information. Inevitably you cross your own path even if you do not realize it given time and the nature of the topic of gardening. The test gardens have been the source of material for this blog for all that time as well as interesting events in agriculture in general. Some of you have been with me since the beginning and I am hoping that I will pick up more folks as we move into the next decade. Speaking of the botanical test gardens, the Autumn Botanical Test Garden tour is coming up. I am shooting for the 18^th of October between the hours of 2pm and 5pm. It is hoped that by then we will have seen another reduction in the Covid-19 restrictions and the weather will cooperate. If not, expect to bring masks, and the Rain Date for the event will be the 25^th of October, just before Halloween. By then I can assure you there will be plenty of fall delights for your gardening fancy and you get to see what’s going on in the test gardens. I can tell you this, 2020 despite politics and other crazy things that happened has been an amazing harvest year, so you can expect some impressive information and some ideas that flip the script when it comes to gardening. But let’s move on from the shameless promotions to talk about something big.

 

Now there is another milestone to talk about, this blog has a YouTube channel called LITFM Garden Shorts. I’ve posted some videos on this blog so the two content sites link up but the amazing thing is that as of just a few days ago the Youtube site finally reached its 50^th video. Now I admit videos were produced at a breakneck pace so that a reasonable amount of content could be had before I worked a bit more on quality improvement. Some of you will recall how the early videos were shot using the camera on my smartphone, and the ‘wobble vision’ that resulted. After that I started using a digital camera and a grip to shoot videos and quality improved but there was still an issue with image stability. Soon a tripod was being used and I started shooting the ‘Lab videos’ for smaller plant subjects and quality got better. All of this was to bring you a better garden video where the plants were the focus and you got a fact-based source of garden information that has virtually no comparison. Well, this is just the beginning, for the rest of 2020 the format will not be changed much, but I have some plans for 2021.Starting in 2021, there will be one video per week for a total of fifty-two videos per year. The scripting will be more detailed, and they will be longer videos but you will get more out of them so the reduced production speed will pay off for you. I may have to revisit certain subjects such as perennials that are better established or in a few rare cases where I feel the original video wasn’t as good as it could have been. These plant update videos will be bonuses under the title ‘LITFM Garden Redux –‘. The redone videos won’t count towards the 52 videos but should help you all out there with making decisions on what plants to use in your gardens. It is my hope that I can figure out how to better edit videos and maybe ad an actual intro to my videos but this whole series is as much a learning process for me as it is for you. I hope you all out there will keep reading this blog and watching the videos.

 

Videos and blogs hitting milestones is good and all but, ‘where’s the gardens’ you ask. Well about that, the weather has gotten kind of nice, it’s cool at night and daytime temperatures are bearable in the 70’s. This is like a perfect second spring and it is time to get those cold weather veggies in the ground while you have the chance. You can direct sow the classics like carrots, lettuce, radish, collards and so on or get plants and get them in the ground. It is also a good time to apply a mild fall fertilizer like dried bat guano or chicken manure. My preferred favorite is mushroom compost or composted cow manure depending on how heavy my cool season crops need to feed.  Typically the rule of thumb I operate under is that low to moderate feeders like Mustard, Carrots, Radish, Celery, Arugula, Spinach, Lettuce and Swiss Chard get the mushroom compost. Heavier feeders like Collards, Cabbage, Pak Choi, Kale, Kohlrabi, Cauliflower, Broccoli and Turnips get a trop-dressing of composted cow manure.  I apply regular doses of liquid fertilizer (Alaska fish fertilizer) just to supplement that and ensure soil moisture and the rest is all a matter of sitting back, relaxing and waiting for the harvest to come in. This isn’t rocket surgery, but it does have a certain agri-science to it that follows a set pattern of actions and reactions to produce a desired outcome. I should note as a matter of timing for cold season crops it is normal to start your slowest maturing seeds indoors using bottom heat as early as the second week of August. Normally you progress from your slowest maturing to your fastest as you get into September and then into Early October. The last batch of indoor-germinated seedlings should be out for hardening off or planting by the 15^th of October. Fortunately you can sow certain seeds like Lettuce, Carrots, Radish, Swiss Chard and Arugula directly so if your indoor crop fails you can have a somewhat slower backup plan. This is also the time when you apply mulches to things that need protection against the coming cold weather and a good time to shoe-in those last few desired perennials. Pruning of things is in order as most shrubs are set to go dormant and of course your last mow and trim should be around the second or third week of October as our grasses in NC are all warm-season and won’t grow anymore until next year.

 

One of the other magical things about this time of year is the planting of scores of Pansies and Violas for color that lasts through fall into early summer of next year. Another good candidate are the Snapdragons which are a flower that only bumblebees like and yet they provide nectar and pollen in general for any pollinator that can get into the flowers. Many gardeners in the Southeast forget that snapdragons can take the winter cold of zone 6b, so our 8a cold is not a bother as long as the snapdragons are planted once the night time temperatures remain cool and they  are maintained. Cold season floral color means nectar and pollen for whatever pollinators can fly or move so this is a lifeline to pollinators during the winter that will pay off later. Hanging baskets full of annuals such as Pansies can attract Carolina Wrens (Thryothorus ludovicianus) to nest. These small birds which are kind of bland in plumage have impressive songs and a voracious appetite for insect pests. They are your cool-season allies in reducing pests such as cabbage moths and cabbage moth larvae. It may help to maintain a Suet feeder for the wrens and other wild birds during the cold months to make sure your garden is well patrolled for insect pests and you keep some form of rotating bird population. There will be more on this in the next post due to be posted right before the Fall tour but let’s move on to the lovely garden photos for this post.

 

First off is this incredibly lovely picture of what Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans) flowers look like. I think had I planted this earlier the Hummingbirds would have went crazy for it but the best of plans can be mislaid.

Here we have a type of solitary bee, specifically a Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa virginica) on the blooms of a Blue African Basil (Ocimum kilimandscharicum × basilicum 'Dark Opal') plant. Carpenter bees can be a problem to exposed woodwork because they burrow in and build tunnels for nesting. Fortunately these bees while decent pollinators are not very bright and simple wooden bottle traps can eliminate them by the bushel.

 

Here we have the burly looking stems of a Pumpkin Crush American Marigold (Tagetes erecta). When I was turning under annuals and summer crops in pots I started in on the potted marigolds as the first frost would certainly turn them all into soup. I did not expect that marigolds would produce adventitious roots that far up the stem or big chunky stems like that.

 

This picture was taken while out and about town at the day job. These are wild morning glories (Ipomoea purpurea) and the red cup flowers with the bright yellow centers were very striking. I plan to hit that site up to see if I can harvest any seed.

 

Now here's something worth talking about! I thought the Pineapple Sage was only frequented by daytime pollinators but I was wrong. As it turns out one night I happened to shine my flashlight at it and found the entire plant was wiggling. At first I thought I was seeing things then I realized, no there were a crap load of moths going to town for nectar! I don’t know what species these little gray moths are but their little eyes lit up in the unnaturally white light of my LED flashlight.

 

Here for your appreciation is a picture of an Okra blossom. If you had any doubts Okra (Abelmoschus esculentum) is in the Hibiscus/Mallow family consider that laid to rest. Ly last three Okra plants have a temporary reprieve from being turned under with all the other warm season crops because they can reliably produce up until frost.

 

This plant is commonly called Mistflower but I know it as Perennial Ageratum (Conoclinium coelestinum) because of its resemblance to the annual bedding plant with a nearly identical flower.  This plant can be invasive as it spreads moderately fast through rhizomes but is vulnerable to herbicides and manual methods of control. I keep a few colonies of this plant to add color to the property in late summer to early/mid-fall. The sky blue flowers and purple stems are striking and its bigger cousin Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed) adds to the palatte with pinks, purples and, reds. For note the Annual cousin is called Bedding Ageratum (A. houstonianum) and has a bunch of common names revolving around similar terms to the perennial pictured.

 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog.

 With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic vegetables, herbs and fruiting shrubs come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

Food Plants: (3” Peat Pots)
Arugula: $3.00
Cabbage, Ruby Perfection: $3.00
Celery, Tango: $3.00
Collards, Carolina: $3.00
Kale, Lace: $3.00
Kale, Red Russian: $3.00
Kale, Scotch Blue Curled: $3.00
Kohlrabi, Cossak: $3.00
Lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson: $3.00
Lettuce, Cherokee Fire: $3.00
Lettuce, Parris Island: $3.00
Swiss Chard, Red: $3.00
Swiss Chard, Green: $3.00
Spinach, Avon: $3.00

Herbs: (3” Peat Pots)
Black Fennel: $3.00

Coming Soon:
Collards, Alabama Blue
Kale, Marrow Stem
Kale, Rainbow Lacinato
Kale, Lacinato (More available in Two Weeks)
Mustard, Japanese Red Giant (More Available in Two Weeks)

Due to the current Covid-19 situation and the state’s requirement that all citizens are not to gather in groups of more than ten, the weekly Sustainable neighbors meeting is online. Please check the sustainable neighbors Meetup.com page for more info about how to attend our online meeting.

https://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/

Since our meetings have an open-door policy you don’t need to sign up for anything or join anything, you can come on in and join the meetings. If not, you can always send me questions through this blog or visit the farmer’s market. This brings to a close the nineteenth LITFM post of 2020; stay tuned the next episode which should be posted on the 16^th of October. There will be more garden updates and other cool stuff.