Showing posts with label Root Rot. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Root Rot. Show all posts

Thursday, February 25, 2021

More Wintery Mayhem

 Welcome back to another episode of Lost In the Farmers Market, This post is late but it’s going to contain more information and attaches to newly filmed episodes of the YouTube series. So as promised, today’s main feature is how to treat a succulent that has suffered frost damage and is exhibiting signs of necrosis and/or how to treat rot in the early stages.   

 

 

Our ‘patient in this case is one of my Sunset Aloes (scientific name Aloe dorotheae). For those who are unfamiliar with the species Sunset aloes are named for the normally yellow-green color of their foliage which turns orange and reddish with exposure to full sun. They end up looking like a living sunset by the middle of summer. You can Google images of this and boy are they something, it's a color that looks out of place in the world of succulents but it is the real deal! The flowers of this Aloe are pink or sometimes pink-red and are borne on tall spikes that can rise up to two feet over the foliage. Sunset Aloes are amazingly dramatic and an underrated must-have for any succulent collection because they are largely disease free, with the exception of root rot. There is also the potential for their gel being medicinal just like Aloe Vera (Sci-name Aloe barbadensis miller) which is absolutely awesome. 

 

 

The specimen above was supposed to be sold during the houseplant sale months (December to February) but it developed what might have been frost damage or simple necrosis via rot. Root and stem rot is often caused by a bacterium called Phytopthora, which represents it self in very differing ways depending on the effected plant. In rhododendrons entire branches wilt and die off and eventually the entire plant collapses because Phytopthora blocks and destroys the plant's vascular systems. In succulents Phytopthora can attack the roors turning them to brown mush then work it's way of the stem or can attack individual leaves and work it's way into the main stem ending your prized succulent or cactus right quick. Phytopthora does not play around, it can destroy a cluster of prized succulents in a pot within a few days if conditions are just right. The best way to think of Pytopthora or stem/root rot is that it is like Ebola, but for plants.  Few plants ever survive it but there are ways to make this happen. I have a greenhouse so I can do things the average homeowner cannot but the following guide is something you can do as a gardener with no real special tools needed.

 

 

The first step is to identify where the rot and necrosis is located. In the case of this Sunset aloe you can see that three leaves have brown-ish gray areas in the otherwise bright green succulent. Using a simple 2" pocket knife I do point out where the problem is, and with that we move on to the next stage.


As you can see, I cut out the affected leaves down to healthy tissue. Now before I start cutting the knife is sterilized with Hydrogen Peroxide. Normally I would use 70% rubbing alcohol but that's understandably hard to get at the moment. Between each cut, I re-sterilize the blade, dry it with a new clean viva towel and make my cuts as cleanly as is possible. The removal of three leaves has unfortunately made this succulent unsaleable so it will get added to my collection after I am sure of it's recovery.

 

 

This next step is something the succulent books might not talk about. I use rooting hormone in powdered form to dress the wounds. I do this because rooting hormone is mostly inert talcum powder, which can be used to forcibly desiccate the wounds allowing this Aloe to close them off faster. Also the desiccating effect can prevent further transmission of Phytopthora, which increases the chances of survival. The brush used is a chemical brush that you can buy cheaply in the plumbing section of Blowes or Home Despot.


This plant will sit in open air for two weeks and will not be watered at all to see if the treatment takes. Then it will be gently repotted and kept in my personal succulent collection in the growing tray in the office. I won't know if it is out of the woods for a few weeks but heres to hoping for the best. With that said root rot is no joke, it's often the death knell of a succulent and you even have to sterilize the pot a dead succulent was in to avoid transmitting it to a new succulent in the same pot. a simple 1:10 bleach to water solution and a 5 minute soak will kill off the pathogens and restore pots that formerly held sick succulents back to normal.


Here is an unrelated picture from the market in February, a Honey Bee clearly approves of my succulents and hung out for a while. The best part about this is I have never gotten this good of a picture of a Honey Bee before and it was taken with a cell phone camera no less.


 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog. Also, as of the start of 2019, my booth can now process credit or debit cards thanks to the acquisition of s a Square reader so your payment options have doubled. With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic vegetables, herbs and fruiting shrubs come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

This Week's Market List:

Soup Kit - Parsnip ($6.00)  

Soup Kit - Turnip ($6.00)

Just Onions ($3.00, 1lb)

Just Parsnips ($4.00-5.00, 1lb or more) 

Garlic Bulbs - Jerimiah's Heirloom ($1.00) 

 

 

Spring Veggies: ($3.00 each)

Parris Island Romaine Lettuce

Cherokee Lettuce

Cimarron Lettuce

Lolo Rosso Lettuce

Black Magic Dinosaur Kale

Red Russian Kale

 

 

February house plant collection (Prices vary, $4.00-8.00)

Devil's Backbone 

Sausage Spurge 

Sansevieria boncellensis - Starfish Sansevieria

Aloe 'Sunset' 

Aloe 'Checkerboard'

Aloe 'Walmsley's Bronze'

Gasteria fusopunctata - Ox-tongue

Haworthia cooperi var. obtusa

Haworthia 'Fat Albert' (Last one in stock)

Haworthia tesselata

Haworthia ‘Savannah’

Haworthia 'West Jogo'

Mistletoe Cactus, 'Drunkards Dream' 


Check it out folks a Plant Showcase Double-header!


 

 

Gasteria fuscopunctata – Ox Tongue

 

Gasteria is a group of plants closely related to the Aloes and the Haworthia groups and they originate from South Africa. The name Gasteria comes from the Latin word Gaster which means stomach and this is due to the stomach shaped flowers. Common names for these succulents are Ox-tongue, Cow-tongue, Lawyer’s Tongue, and less commonly Mother-in-law’s-tongue. Compared to Aloe and Haworthia, Gasteria are the most likely to be mistaken for being plastic and they are the slowest growing of the three. Despite the slow rate of growth Gasteria are known for producing offsets without being induced and are for the most part immune to neglect. What makes them unique is their dark green strap-like leaves that have banding or dots on them that kind of resemble Snake plants (Sanseveria) without actually being snake plants. In cross section the leaves can be rounded, elliptical, U-shaped or sometimes a weird geometric shape (G. bicolor) that defies classification. Gasteria are so closely related to the Aloes and Haworthias that crossbreeds do exist and are commonly called Gasteraloes or Hawortherias. This plant does well with watering once a month, in basic potting soil. It will need re-potting every two to three years and much like Haworthias, Gasterias are pet-safe. The real appeal is the cool foliage and then, the scent-free flowers which tend to appear between February and April. The one thing you should never do with a Gasteria is allow it to be exposed to frost, they are potentially hardy up to zone 9, but can be disfigured by frost or exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees.

 

 


Haworthia ' Savannah'

 

 

Savannah is a unique breed of Haworthia from south Africa that is noted for its silvery-green leaves and sometimes is mistaken for an aloe. It should be protected from exceptionally strong sunlight as it's leaves will turn reddish which may be unappealing to some. Generally, it is grown in bright but indirect sunlight and you only need to water it when the soil is dry to the touch below the surface. You can provide it with a weak fertilizer in the warm months every two weeks to ensure reasonable growth. This succulent should be re-potted once every 1-2 years in a pot no larger than 2" larger than the old one if grown by itself. This Haworthia's big chunky leaves make quite the impression in a succulent collection and it's quite striking when paired with a dark-colored pot. Some growers have suggested that the little bumps on the leaves resemble braille, and indeed who knows what story the plant would tell if someone knew how to read the leaves.

                                          

 

We have a new place to share information and work on groovy sustainable stuff!  You can look for Sustainable Neighbors in our own Nextdoor.com group under the name “Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville”. You don’t have to live in Fayetteville to join but it is a private group so feel free to request to join us if you are signed up on the Nextdoor.com site.

 

https://nextdoor.com/g/ybvdm226x/?is=nav_bar

 

Unfortunately, Covid-19 is still mucking up the works in terms of meeting in person. The good news is that Sustainable Neighbors does have a Discord Server. You can request access through our Meetup.com page or you can request access via our Nextdoor.com group. The meetup.com page is below for anyone looking to join us.

 

https://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/

Since our meetings have an open-door policy you don’t need to buy anything or maintain any sort of attendance standard, you can come on in and join the meetings. When this Covid-19 mess calms down we may be able to resume normal in-person meetings. If not, you can always send me questions through this blog or visit the farmer’s market. This is the fourth LITFM post of 2021; stay tuned for our next post on or about the 5th of March. Don’t forget to check out of YouTube videos at LITFM-Garden Shorts.

Friday, March 25, 2016

Get lost winter!



Welcome back to another fine episode of Lost In The Farmers Market, this is our first episode of spring 2016, and you can bet there is some good stuff planned for this one. You have to love how spring came so fast though; it was not long ago temperatures were dipping into freezing every night. It appeared as if nothing seemed to be growing except the winter weeds and then suddenly we had a bunch of hot days and everything was dusted in a patina of yellow pollen from the pines. As if teasing all those nice seed catalogs and garden supply books started showing up in the mail and you placed your orders and the waiting game started. We all looked outside and relished the few warm spring-like days and then the weather started to act like summer sort of and we had to hold onto the urge to do anything because we knew it’d cold again. But then the miracle happened, all that stuff you ordered in February showed up in March!

Oh yes it’s very much like this.
So you have the goods, and well the weather turned sideways…again. But there is good news, the unofficial final killing frost date is Sunday April the 31st and that means in short order it will be very safe to start putting out your tomatoes or planting your warm-season plants directly. But of course not everyone knows what to do this time of year so of course as the first order of business I’m teaching this class.

Jump-Start Your Garden
Sunday April 10th, 2016 2:00-4:00pm

At the Museum of the Cape Fear Historical Complex
801 Arsenal Avenue Fayetteville NC 28305.

You can sign up for this class here:  http://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/events/229870215/
Walk-ins are welcome.

This class is hopefully the start of a monthly series (2nd Sunday of every month) and it comes about three weeks before the Sustainable Neighbors Urban Farm Tour which is slated for the First May 1st, 2016 between 2:00-5:00pm. The garden tour locations will be announced as I verify who is willing to host a location. So yes spring has sprung and there are all sorts of good stuff going on. Also there is the City market Meetup which happens weekly and

The City Market
325 Franklin Street, Fayetteville NC
Saturdays 9:00an-1:00pm

Below you will find a list of what is most likely going to be available at the market; I should note that this is the last week that I sell soup-kits. This is mostly because I require the table space for warm season crops and honestly soup isn’t as great when it’s hot out. I should have tomatoes and or warm season items in a week or two depending on what the current weather pattern decides to do.

Produce
8x Soup Kits, $5.00 (Celery, Carrot, Red Potatoes, Onions, Purple top turnip and a parsnip)

Crop Plants
8x Rouge D’hiver Lettuce, $3.00 (Romaine Type Heirloom)
8x Napa Cabbage, $3.00 (Asian Cabbage, Heirloom Type.)
6x Dinosaur Kale, $3.00 (AKA Tuscan Kale, good for kale chips)
6x Swiss Chard $3.00 (Bright Lights Mix)


With all of the aforementioned covered, now I move onto the main topic. For you regular readers you might remember the image below from January. This is a Crosby’s Prolific Aloe, and this image was again taken of the plant in January. As the weather has stabilized I was preparing to bring it out to the deck so that it could get some additional sun and hopefully bloom and I noticed something was wrong.

 Aloe x. nobilis – Crosby’s Prolific Aloe

The fact is that succulents and cacti are very dramatic when sick and you can easily spot a sick succulent in a row of identical ones because they are very apparent. Since succulents can’t exactly wilt like a bedding annual and can be scarred by injury for years when they suddenly collapse it means something is terribly wrong. So you have what I found on the growing tray a few days ago.

This is incredibly bad.
This aloe is suffering from a sickness that is commonly fatal to aloes because it is so difficult to detect before the plant has gone soggy. The sickness is commonly called Root Rot and it is caused by one of two types of water mold both tend to strike as a result of over watering. The two common culprits are called Pythium and Phytopthera and both are hydrophilic in nature in that they need a wet environment to attack your plants. For note I keep my aloes very much on the dry side so I suspect this aloe got attacked because fungus gnats are known to spread root rot as the root rot organisms can live on the feet of fungus gnats. Why root rot randomly attacks healthy plants is unknown, but it’s always severe, some plants lose half their mass and recover, others seemingly turn into a puddle of slush overnight. Literally for succulents root rot is as severe as Ebola is in humans. Generally treatment isn’t worth doing but if it’s a special specimen like this Crosby is, then the first step is to remove as much infected tissue as you can.

Opportunistic fungi and diseases move in after root rot has done it's worst

Mostly cleaned this aloe still is a mess.

In the case of my aloe, that means removing any and all collapsed stems. Since most of the connective tissues are pulped by the disease this should be easy but try not to touch the healthy portions of your plant after you’ve touched diseased portions. Cut away as much as you can and then wash your hands and any tools you may have used with rubbing alcohol. Next inspect the healthy portions; in the case of my aloe the one healthy stem is also being attacked. Since this is a specimen plant, I will go ahead and cut the healthy stem off, then peel away the dry papery coverings over the stem. The next step is to cut ahead of the encroaching rot and make a cut into healthy tissue with a clean pair of scissors or a very sharp knife.

The rot has attacked this stem also but the crown in this case is well above the damaged area.

With the papery sheaths at the leaf bases removed it's clear that the rot does not go all the way up.
A simple single cut with a clean pair of scissors and now we have a potentially viable  cutting.
It is possible this cutting may make it but there is one more aspect to after-care, this cutting should be allowed to air-dry for a few hours, then get dipped in rooting hormone and allowed to form a callus at the end of the stem. The callus forming procedure can take a few days, but make sure to seat the cutting so it’s bottom faces down like shown. In few days the cutting will either collapse due to rot or begin to form roots, at this point it’s a 50-50 chance depending on how well you maintain sterility during the cutting procedure. If it survives, a few days place the cutting in a small pot with sterilized potting medium and water sparingly. Within a month the cutting will either grow roots and, continue on or the disease will take its toll. As for the remains of the plant and its old potting soil, dispose of that in in the compost and do not use any compost from your compost bin for at least six to eight months.

The cleaned cutting being dipped in rooting hormone after being allowed to dry a few hours.

The cutting is placed upright in a jar for a few days to allow a proper callus to form and to impede the progress of any surviving root rot pathogens.
 From the point in the last picture it become a waiting game to see if or if not the cutting recovers. Either way I hope this helps some of you succulent and cacti growers out there.