More Wintery Mayhem

 Welcome back to another episode of Lost In the Farmers Market, This post is late but it’s going to contain more information and attaches to newly filmed episodes of the YouTube series. So as promised, today’s main feature is how to treat a succulent that has suffered frost damage and is exhibiting signs of necrosis and/or how to treat rot in the early stages.   

 

 

Our ‘patient in this case is one of my Sunset Aloes (scientific name Aloe dorotheae). For those who are unfamiliar with the species Sunset aloes are named for the normally yellow-green color of their foliage which turns orange and reddish with exposure to full sun. They end up looking like a living sunset by the middle of summer. You can Google images of this and boy are they something, it's a color that looks out of place in the world of succulents but it is the real deal! The flowers of this Aloe are pink or sometimes pink-red and are borne on tall spikes that can rise up to two feet over the foliage. Sunset Aloes are amazingly dramatic and an underrated must-have for any succulent collection because they are largely disease free, with the exception of root rot. There is also the potential for their gel being medicinal just like Aloe Vera (Sci-name Aloe barbadensis miller) which is absolutely awesome. 

 

 

The specimen above was supposed to be sold during the houseplant sale months (December to February) but it developed what might have been frost damage or simple necrosis via rot. Root and stem rot is often caused by a bacterium called Phytopthora, which represents it self in very differing ways depending on the effected plant. In rhododendrons entire branches wilt and die off and eventually the entire plant collapses because Phytopthora blocks and destroys the plant's vascular systems. In succulents Phytopthora can attack the roors turning them to brown mush then work it's way of the stem or can attack individual leaves and work it's way into the main stem ending your prized succulent or cactus right quick. Phytopthora does not play around, it can destroy a cluster of prized succulents in a pot within a few days if conditions are just right. The best way to think of Pytopthora or stem/root rot is that it is like Ebola, but for plants.  Few plants ever survive it but there are ways to make this happen. I have a greenhouse so I can do things the average homeowner cannot but the following guide is something you can do as a gardener with no real special tools needed.

 

 

The first step is to identify where the rot and necrosis is located. In the case of this Sunset aloe you can see that three leaves have brown-ish gray areas in the otherwise bright green succulent. Using a simple 2" pocket knife I do point out where the problem is, and with that we move on to the next stage.

As you can see, I cut out the affected leaves down to healthy tissue. Now before I start cutting the knife is sterilized with Hydrogen Peroxide. Normally I would use 70% rubbing alcohol but that's understandably hard to get at the moment. Between each cut, I re-sterilize the blade, dry it with a new clean viva towel and make my cuts as cleanly as is possible. The removal of three leaves has unfortunately made this succulent unsaleable so it will get added to my collection after I am sure of it's recovery.

 

 

This next step is something the succulent books might not talk about. I use rooting hormone in powdered form to dress the wounds. I do this because rooting hormone is mostly inert talcum powder, which can be used to forcibly desiccate the wounds allowing this Aloe to close them off faster. Also the desiccating effect can prevent further transmission of Phytopthora, which increases the chances of survival. The brush used is a chemical brush that you can buy cheaply in the plumbing section of Blowes or Home Despot.

This plant will sit in open air for two weeks and will not be watered at all to see if the treatment takes. Then it will be gently repotted and kept in my personal succulent collection in the growing tray in the office. I won't know if it is out of the woods for a few weeks but heres to hoping for the best. With that said root rot is no joke, it's often the death knell of a succulent and you even have to sterilize the pot a dead succulent was in to avoid transmitting it to a new succulent in the same pot. a simple 1:10 bleach to water solution and a 5 minute soak will kill off the pathogens and restore pots that formerly held sick succulents back to normal.

Here is an unrelated picture from the market in February, a Honey Bee clearly approves of my succulents and hung out for a while. The best part about this is I have never gotten this good of a picture of a Honey Bee before and it was taken with a cell phone camera no less.

 

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog. Also, as of the start of 2019, my booth can now process credit or debit cards thanks to the acquisition of s a Square reader so your payment options have doubled. With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic vegetables, herbs and fruiting shrubs come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

 

This Week's Market List:

Soup Kit - Parsnip ($6.00)  

Soup Kit - Turnip ($6.00)

Just Onions ($3.00, 1lb)

Just Parsnips ($4.00-5.00, 1lb or more) 

Garlic Bulbs - Jerimiah's Heirloom ($1.00) 

 

 

Spring Veggies: ($3.00 each)

Parris Island Romaine Lettuce

Cherokee Lettuce

Cimarron Lettuce

Lolo Rosso Lettuce

Black Magic Dinosaur Kale

Red Russian Kale

 

 

February house plant collection (Prices vary, $4.00-8.00)

Devil's Backbone 

Sausage Spurge 

Sansevieria boncellensis - Starfish Sansevieria

Aloe 'Sunset' 

Aloe 'Checkerboard'

Aloe 'Walmsley's Bronze'

Gasteria fusopunctata - Ox-tongue

Haworthia cooperi var. obtusa

Haworthia 'Fat Albert' (Last one in stock)

Haworthia tesselata

Haworthia ‘Savannah’

Haworthia 'West Jogo'

Mistletoe Cactus, 'Drunkards Dream' 

Check it out folks a Plant Showcase Double-header!

 

 

Gasteria fuscopunctata – Ox Tongue

 

Gasteria is a group of plants closely related to the Aloes and the Haworthia groups and they originate from South Africa. The name Gasteria comes from the Latin word Gaster which means stomach and this is due to the stomach shaped flowers. Common names for these succulents are Ox-tongue, Cow-tongue, Lawyer’s Tongue, and less commonly Mother-in-law’s-tongue. Compared to Aloe and Haworthia, Gasteria are the most likely to be mistaken for being plastic and they are the slowest growing of the three. Despite the slow rate of growth Gasteria are known for producing offsets without being induced and are for the most part immune to neglect. What makes them unique is their dark green strap-like leaves that have banding or dots on them that kind of resemble Snake plants (Sanseveria) without actually being snake plants. In cross section the leaves can be rounded, elliptical, U-shaped or sometimes a weird geometric shape (G. bicolor) that defies classification. Gasteria are so closely related to the Aloes and Haworthias that crossbreeds do exist and are commonly called Gasteraloes or Hawortherias. This plant does well with watering once a month, in basic potting soil. It will need re-potting every two to three years and much like Haworthias, Gasterias are pet-safe. The real appeal is the cool foliage and then, the scent-free flowers which tend to appear between February and April. The one thing you should never do with a Gasteria is allow it to be exposed to frost, they are potentially hardy up to zone 9, but can be disfigured by frost or exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees.

 

 

Haworthia ' Savannah'

 

 

Savannah is a unique breed of Haworthia from south Africa that is noted for its silvery-green leaves and sometimes is mistaken for an aloe. It should be protected from exceptionally strong sunlight as it's leaves will turn reddish which may be unappealing to some. Generally, it is grown in bright but indirect sunlight and you only need to water it when the soil is dry to the touch below the surface. You can provide it with a weak fertilizer in the warm months every two weeks to ensure reasonable growth. This succulent should be re-potted once every 1-2 years in a pot no larger than 2" larger than the old one if grown by itself. This Haworthia's big chunky leaves make quite the impression in a succulent collection and it's quite striking when paired with a dark-colored pot. Some growers have suggested that the little bumps on the leaves resemble braille, and indeed who knows what story the plant would tell if someone knew how to read the leaves.

                                          

 

We have a new place to share information and work on groovy sustainable stuff!  You can look for Sustainable Neighbors in our own Nextdoor.com group under the name “Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville”. You don’t have to live in Fayetteville to join but it is a private group so feel free to request to join us if you are signed up on the Nextdoor.com site.

 

https://nextdoor.com/g/ybvdm226x/?is=nav_bar

 

Unfortunately, Covid-19 is still mucking up the works in terms of meeting in person. The good news is that Sustainable Neighbors does have a Discord Server. You can request access through our Meetup.com page or you can request access via our Nextdoor.com group. The meetup.com page is below for anyone looking to join us.

 

https://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/

Since our meetings have an open-door policy you don’t need to buy anything or maintain any sort of attendance standard, you can come on in and join the meetings. When this Covid-19 mess calms down we may be able to resume normal in-person meetings. If not, you can always send me questions through this blog or visit the farmer’s market. This is the fourth LITFM post of 2021; stay tuned for our next post on or about the 5th of March. Don’t forget to check out of YouTube videos at LITFM-Garden Shorts.

Gardening In Winter Part III

 Welcome back to another Episode of Lost in the Farmers Market. In the last episode I spoke here about dealing with a Carolina Cherry problem. For those just tuning in, the problem is simple enough at a glance, a roughly 30 foot tall Carolina Cherry that is healthy but, has developed a curved shape. Normally in the landscape this isn’t a problem but this curved tree was doing three things that posed a problem. Firstly, it was casting enough shade over the memorial lily bed that my Asiatic Lilies were growing in crooked. As an addendum to this problem the roots of the same tree were competing with the lilies for water and fertilizer. Second, this tree produces a lot of seeds and on a yearly basis this means pulling roughly a hundred or more seedlings out of the lily bed. These seedlings are another source of competition for the lilies which are already having a hard time. Also, it should be said that while some trees have the decency to have a biological mechanism to prevent their seedlings from germinating beneath their canopies, Carolina Cherry Laurels (Prunus caroliniana) do not. The third problem is the projected growth of the tree which eventually would make it a hazard to the house and other nearby desirable shrubs. Another issue complicating the actions taken was time  Taking down a thirty foot tree by yourself safely is time consuming and requires preparation work so this entire project was done over several weekends with work stopping due to a lack of daylight. As an additional aspect to timing, I had to bring the tree down before the lilies emerged and preferably before the daffodils really got going. The Daffodils emerged in mid-January this year and so the project got fast-tracked. So let’s get started with this winter-structural project so you can see the process as told by photographs. This will be a photo-heavy post so you might want to look at the following on a computer. 

 

The calm before the clipping; here is what the area looked like before I started. Look carefully at the tree in the center, that is my primary target. That Carolina Cherry Laurel has a double-leader meaning two primary growth points and is dangerously curved. A double leader often means a tree might split in half if a sufficient load of ice or wind is put on it and that can spell disaster.

Here is a side-view, in the upper part of the picture you can see the curve is almost a 45 degree angle. This is bad for business because it blocks light, and showers the bed below with seeds which causes problems.

Step one, all solar lights, statuary and such are removed from the Memorial Bed. You can see a lot of little Carolina Cherry Laurel seedlings in the bed, they get pulled out in this step so that the lilies have no competition.

Clearing the hedgerow a bit is the initial phase of pruning because it allows me to see the primary target better which makes the big job of cutting it down safer.

I decided to clear the entire hedgerow since it was all kind of overgrown. This has the advantage of giving me more room to to place the ladder I'll need to use in later phases of this maintenance operation

The hedgerow is brought under control all the way up to the shed, that's fifty feet of hedgerow. Most of the branches trimmed are less than 0.5" so easy stuff, hand pruners and the occasional use of a folding saw.

As I run out of daylight, I do another pass over the Memorial Bed, no Carolina Cherry Laurel seedling is left standing, but there is one more task at hand.

As daylight fades and I am nearly out of time I use three bales of Pine straw to cover the Memorial Bed, replenishing it's mulch cover. The bales aren't pretty at this stage because they've been sitting out but that will change once they dry.

This photo was taken before I moved onto the next phase. The pine straw looks great because it has dried and settled into place, you'd never know this was the site of a Carolina Cherry Laurel seedling mass murder. It was as of this point that I stopped using the Pole Pruner and Extending Pole Saws since they were not cutting it (pun intended) against the main target it was time break out a little surprise for a certain tree.

*Tool Time Grunting Intensifies!* Yeah, I ordered an all-electric 40v 8"bar Pole Chain Saw from Lowes and it arrived a few days before this photo was snapped. It's surprisingly quiet, easy to maneuver and a certain tree suddenly learned who was boss in this garden. If you look closely in the picture the limb that is down is the front limb of the double-Leader I mentioned. Double leaders can be unpredictable in how they fall because the shift in weight can cause the branch crotch to split or the wood can be twisted internally. The saw made quick work of this.

The pole saw made quick work of the down branch itself. It took no time at all to start lopping things off and the slow part was dragging things to the curb.

This is the main trunk of that first leader I cut off. It tried to put up a last bit of resistance with a slip of wood holding it on at an angle where I could not get the saw in. So I cut away any part of it touching the ground gravity did the rest. The trick  is letting the branch's own weight bring it down, but you want to give it some room just in case.

So now with one half of the tree gone the garden already looks better. My trusty ladder posed for this shot and  for note that is a wood 1" thick board under the small feet. I put that there so they don't sink in and put me at risk of falling off.

The second leader is down. The ladder is toppled because earlier while getting off it I misjudged the number of steps and fell off. The ladder decided to join in the fun and thankfully the soil was soft. I got a nice bruise on my left thumb for my trouble so the trees got 0.05 score, to my 8.0 score.

That second leader fight back, as I cut it's last attachment point it fell towards me and against gravity and slapped me in the right hand while on the latter, Carolina Cherry Laurels 0.10, me 9.0 score. Anyway after it was downed and cut up the above picture is what was roughly left.

Here is a side shot, notice the big difference? Side by side you can see I took out ten or more feet of tree canopy. The hedgerow now looks almost straight and things are looking pretty good.

So for this step, I reinstalled the statuary and shepherds hook with a wind chime and then I pulled back the new pine straw, and applied a mixture of Hollytone and Bone Meal. Let me tell you, bone meal gets airborne much easier that powdered limestone. There wasn't even a breeze at that time and it looks like a flour factory exploded.

I was glad I was still wearing head head an eye protection and had on a fabric mask due to the chainsaw because there was dust everywhere. After a few minutes the exposed bed looked like this.

As daylight ebbed and tiredness started to set in, the final tasks of the day were at hand. I watered the fertilizers in (yes you should water bone meal in) and I put the mulch back using a pitchfork. Since it's winter and the irrigation stuff is offline I used a watering can to water things in. And this concludes the major operation to bring down a crooked tree and it's terrible offspring. The tools I used to make all this happen are as follows; Pruners, Folding Hand Saw, Extending Pole Saw, Extending Pole Pruners, Pitchfork, Small Bucket, Trowel, 1 Gallon Watering Can, and a 40v Battery Powered Electric Pole Chainsaw. This far this project has produced two piles of branches roughly eight feet long and about two and a half feet high. The tree in question was an estimated 5" caliper at maximum, but I have yet to take down the central trunk yet, that is the next operation.

So I hope all this tree chopping fun helps all you gardeners out there who are undecided on how to go about handling the problem. A well thought out plan of action goes a long way towards turning your imagination into reality. Oh, this post was not sponsored or paid for by bLowes or Kobalt, It just so happens that I already had a Kobalt Electric string trimmer using the same battery packs as the chainsaw they offered and figured a pole chainsaw will solve more problems at the Botanical test gardens than it creates. Plus it's a lot harder to hurt yourself with a 8" blade electric pole saw than a conventional one. With that said lets look at some other Test Garden Goodness.

This is the week before last's Kale Harvest, six types. From the upper left; Scotch Blue Curled, Russian Red, Marrow Stem, (lower left) Black Magic Lacinato Kale, Winterbor, Lacinato Kale. When the Rainbow Lacinato is ready expect photographs.

Last Week's Mustard Harvest. Japanese Red Giant is up top and Mizuna Mustard is on the bottom. Mizuna is mild and really good in soups and raw in sandwiches or salads. JRG mustard is more like a traditional mustard green but has a more pungent garlic flavor.

 

Here we have the largest leaves in the harvest, the middle leaf is 21" long which is normal for Japanese Red Giant. You get a lot from individual plants but spacing is important.

With all that garden goodness covered this is the part of the blog where I have to advertise for the Fayetteville City Market. Now I know you readers probably don’t much like advertisements, but by booth at the City Market helps to cover the costs of running the test garden and literally maintains the Research & Development budget that is used to bring you the information that has made up the backbone of this blog. Also, as of the start of 2019, my booth can now process credit or debit cards thanks to the acquisition of s a Square reader so your payment options have doubled. With that said, if you want to get some GMO-free, Organic vegetables, herbs and fruiting shrubs come on down to the Fayetteville City Market on 325 Maxwell Street in downtown Fayetteville between the Hours of 9:00 am and 1:00 pm on Saturdays. Even in bad weather the market goes on though you might have to look for me under the ‘arches’ of the Transportation Museum’s front entryway.

Fresh Produce:
Soup Kit: Parsnip: $6.00
Soup Kit: Turnip: $6.00
Garlic Bulbs: $1.00
Seasoning Packets: $2.00
Shallots: $2.00
Parsnips, 1lb: $4.00
Turnips, 1lb: $3.00
Onions, 1lb: $3.00

February House Plant Collection:
Haworthia 'Fat Albert': $8.00
Haworthia 'West Jogo': $7.00
Devil's Backbone: $7.00
Sausage Spurge: $4.00
Starfish Sansevaria: $7.00
Aloe 'Sunset': $8.00
Aloe 'Checkerboard': $8.00
Rhipsalis, Slender: $7.00
Rhipsalis 'Drunkards Dream': $7.00

(More plants TBA, Stay Tuned)

Hatiora salicornoides 'Drunkard’s Dream’ – Drunkard’s Dream Mistletoe Cactus

 

This plant was once known as Rhipsalis salicornoides, but the name changed within the last two decades and you will find some of these plants with the old name on their tags. This is a true cactus and originates in the eastern regions of Brazil. It is found naturally in moist forests, the savanna and rocky areas in an elevation range of 660 to 1750 feet. It can grow up to three feet tall in cultivation and its stems are composed of segments that can be up to 2” long. If exposed to the right amount of light it will bloom in roughly February or March and bear dozens of small yellow to orange flowers that look like miniature Christmas Cactus flowers. This is the plant for you if you have no success with Christmas Cactus or are simply bored with what Christmas Cacti have to offer. Drunkards dream is easy to grow will tolerate a range of temperatures but does not tolerate freezing. This variety of Mistletoe Cactus got its name because its segments are shaped like little wine bottles. This plant can go out for summer and is easily propagated by snapping off a branch with at least five segments and sticking it in soil, no rooting hormone needed.

We have a new place to share information and work on groovy sustainable stuff!  You can look for Sustainable Neighbors in our own Nextdoor.com group under the name “Sustainable Neighbors of Fayetteville”. You don’t have to live in Fayetteville to join but it is a private group so feel free to request to join us if you are signed up on the Nextdoor.com site.

https://nextdoor.com/g/ybvdm226x/?is=nav_bar

Unfortunately, Covid-19 is still mucking up the works in terms of meeting in person. The good news is that Sustainable Neighbors does have a Discord Server. You can request access through our Meetup.com page or you can request access via our Nextdoor.com group. The meetup.com page is below for anyone looking to join us.

https://www.meetup.com/SustainableNeighbors/

Since our meetings have an open-door policy you don’t need to buy anything or maintain any sort of attendance standard, you can come on in and join the meetings. When this Covid-19 mess calms down we may be able to resume normal in-person meetings. If not, you can always send me questions through this blog or visit the farmer’s market. This is the third LITFM post of 2021; stay tuned for our next post on or about the 18th of February. Don’t forget to check out of YouTube videos at LITFM-Garden Shorts.